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Something Wicked 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 390', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ed Palen, Laurie Daniels
Page Views: 838
Submitted By: Alex Abrams on Sep 30, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: P2 chimney.


Nice chimney route in the Avalanche Lake area. Stellar scenery and good views of the California Flake across the lake.

P1 - 5.6: From the amphitheater formed by a large cave, climb up the right wall of the cave aiming for an obvious off-width that widens to a chimney. At the top of the chimney, traverse left onto a tree-covered ledge with fixed rap webbing on its left side. You can easily see the P2 chimney from this ledge. Belay here.

P2 - 5.8: Walk into the base of the enormous chimney. Begin stemming your way up the chimney to a bolt. Continue up the narrowing chimney and pass a large chockstone on its left side. Continue through the chimney that narrows almost to a squeeze, then exit the chimney onto the top of an enormous flake that forms the left side of the chimney. Continue up easier ground to the top of the flake and a 2-bolt anchor on the main wall.

(disclaimer: we stopped here and rappelled from the top of P2 with a 70m rope. You can get to the ground in 2 rappels with a single 70m rope from the top of P2)

P3 description is included for completeness. P3 is described as being dirty and painful in the guidebook.

P3 - 5.9: From the top of the enormous flake, traverse left, then step onto the main wall. Traverse left 20' to the base of a crack. Climb the crack, then head right to a tree island.


If you approach Avalanche Lake from the Loj, this climb will be on the right side of the lake, opposite the California Flake. The approach from the trail is not obvious, but it can be clearly seen from the base of the California Flake. We ended up walking up the trail until we thought we were near the base, then bushwhacked up a short ways to a gully that lead us to the base of the cave.


Standard Adirondacks rack. 4" cam helpful for P1, but probably not necessary. The P2 chimney looks poorly protected from its base, but once you start climbing it is all there. I would call both P1 and P2 G-rated.

Photos of Something Wicked Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me in the initial stemming section of P2.
Me in the initial stemming section of P2.

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