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The Wart
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Something Big & Lovely S 

Something Big & Lovely 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Cam Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Aug 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The Wart seen from the standard Las Conchas trail....

Description 

Bouldery moves past 4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains

Location 

On the Overhanging east face. It is the only climb so it should be easy to find.

Protection 

4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains. For many years there was no real anchor at the top so a single biner on the 4 bolt served as the anchor. In February 2015, a two bolt anchor with chains was installed.


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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 8, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I had enough fun on this route last summer to motivate enough to install a two-bolt anchor on the route today. I considered going up and left with the anchor but the rock was really punky that way so the anchor is straight up a few feet from the last (fourth) bolt.
By DisturbingThePeace
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Feb 9, 2015

Thanks Jason! I had always wondered if this route could be extended to the top of the wall, but it doesn't sound like it would add any good climbing.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 10, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

No problem Mike. It might could have been interesting climbing up and left to the top but it would take a lot of brushing and cleaning and I'm not sure it would have been worthy. I chatted with Cam Burns last week about the route before putting in the anchors and he was cool with anchors being added but didn't think any new lead protection bolts would be necessary so straight up it was!