Route Guide    Journal    What's New    Partners    Forum        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Some City Scrambles
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Apr 25, 2016
Some City scrambles

As in all alpine and climbing areas, there appear to be two kinds of visitors: bad-ass sport climbers who all have rotator cuff injuries, and “if you don't fall at least three times on a route, you're not challenged enough”. When you're never more than three feet above a bolt, you don't have to worry about exposure.

The other kind of course is the hiker. If there's a drop-off beside the trail, they appreciate a handrail.

In between these two extremes, the province of what was once called “mountain climber”, there is no one left. The species has become extinct. Oh, there are still the peak baggers, the population that keeps up the membership numbers of the various alpine clubs. This group is even more fit than the hikers, and almost as shy of exposure.

For the few old farts like myself who still enjoy gaining a summit of some technical challenge, unencumbered by modern safety gear and procedures, here are some outings in Idaho's City of Rocks that I can recommend. All lower 5th class.

Castle Rock State Park

Wedding Wall -- gain the col between this and Poultry Pillar from either side, then easily up the south ridge. Maybe 5.3 or so.

Kid Rock – can be ascended more easily than the 5.5 route Small Fry on the opposite side of the formation, just right of Honeymoon Arete.

City, Parking Lot area

An enchainment not to be missed:

Buzzard's Perch N ridge. From the col between this and Clamshell, where the climbing starts, find a hidden (north-facing) short chimney (which doesn't need to be chimneyed) which leads around to the
South Slabs of the Clamshell. Trend right for easier climbing and soon you are on this, the highest summit easily accessed from the parking lot. Buzzard is not 5.5 – more like 5.1. Ditto the slabs. These two take only a few hours at most. On the way back to the parking lot, detour to the col between Buzzard and Rabbit, and bag
Rabbit Rock N ridge.
Joined Mar 15, 2013
0 points
Apr 26, 2016
Cool story bro. zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
325 points

Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.