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Some Advice Is Hard to Follow 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: T. Bubb, Micah Salazar, 6/28/11
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces North.
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 1, 2011

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Micah Salazar cruxes following 'Some Advice Is Har...

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  • Description 

    Some bits of advice are harder to follow than others. Likewise, some routes are harder to follow (or for that matter lead) than others. Of all of the new routes recently done on the Advisor, this one is the only one that generated any rope tension.... The grade is 5.9, but that's an offwidth, so bear it in mind.

    Climb up into the acute dihedral, using awkward stems and crack moves to get up to a the first good stance and a fist-sized cam placement. Get gear in and make a few more moves to reach OW sized gear, and then a few more to get up to the chockstone. Only a midget is going to be able to fit into the chimney, so climb it to the outside of the chockstone. A solid medium nut was placed behind the chockstone on the FA. If this sounds unappetizing, consider taking tube chocks or run it out to up and over the chock before placing good gear (thin hands-sized, if memory serves me well), and then climb sideways onto the ramp above and to the West. Belay at a stance up the ramp to the west.

    To descend, climb West and scramble down a low angle face into the "slot-canyon" and then navigate out West and then North to re-emerge at the base of the 3rd Advisor.


    This route is in the "canyons" area of the North Face of the 3rd Advisor. Walk down from the Northwest summit of the 3rd Advisor toward the base for perhaps 100 meters, keeping an eye on the wall for large slot-canyon-like chimneys. This is in an area where this wall is 30-50' tall. Several entries to this system of slots and chimneys exist, the highest (most Westward) being one going directly back South into the cliff with a right-facing, overhanding corner at the back of it that you can walk to (this is a 5.8 named 'Everyone Has an Opinion').

    Down below this the Canyon Area's Buttress ends and there is a second entrance to the chimney that is in a deep acute corner. The climb is further distinguished by a solid 2-foot chockstone wedged 8-10 meters up in it.

    One more landmark... an exceptionally large live pine with a strangely, bulbous trunk lies down 5 meters East of the base of this route, and near the base of a somewhat 'mossy' 5.7+ fingers-to-hand crack.


    A few large cams and a solid medium nut behind the chockstone.

    Photos of Some Advice Is Hard to Follow Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Micah emerges from the squeeze on 'Some Advice Is ...
    Micah emerges from the squeeze on 'Some Advice Is ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the crux on the FA lead of 'Some...
    BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the crux on the FA lead of 'Some...

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