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Parking Lot Rock - West
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Batwings T 
Batwings Direct S 
Behold  T 
Delay of Game S 
No Parking T 
Norma's Book T 
Pave Paradise T 
Road Rage T 
Solo Mission T 
Solstice S 
Suburban Sprawl T,S 
Suprise T 

Solstice 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham / Lisa Horowitz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: dave bingham on Jun 22, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: View of Norma's game and Solstice.

Description 

(5.9d) - Ten bolts to chain anchor. This is a bolted direct version of the R/X rated "Suburban Sprawl". (The lower crux sections of "Suburban" are unchanged) , Start on the boulder pile just right of "Norma's Book". Climb the vague rib past a horizontal crack (optional 1" gear placement). Above the crack, clip bolt then step left on a ledge, then up crux balance move to easier climbing.

This is a nice, bolted, direct version of Suburban Sprawl, which doesn't effect or change the lower crux sections of Suburban Sprawl.

Location 

Right of Norma's Book and left of Batwings.

Protection 

Quickdraws. Optional 1" gear past 3rd bolt. Can be done with one 70m rope. Anchor can be accessed via 5.5 traverse from near the top of Norma's Book.


Comments on Solstice Add Comment
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By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Jul 19, 2015

I believe this new route from Dave Bingham will be an instant classic. It's in a great location, nice routes around it, perfectly setup bolts and hard/tricky climbing to a chain anchor.

It's really good!
By KimSt
Sep 29, 2015

This route cannot be done with a 60 m rope. We used a 70 and barely had any rope left over. Other than that its a great climb!
By dave bingham
Oct 7, 2015

Kim - thanks for the comment re: rope length. Solstice does require a 70 meter rope to get off - as do many routes at COR.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 17, 2016

Depends on your definition of classic. It's really just a one move wonder and an awkward one at that. The location, however, ensures that it will certainly be one of the most popular routes in the city. Great eye for putting in that line, Dave. Get on it before the crowds descend!
By Luke Dunklee
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

We were able to lower to the top of the boulder pile (under Norma's Book) with a 60m. It was a Sterling rope, however, and may be cut long, so YMMV. Definitely knot the ends and have a 2nd rope available if you're trying to make this work.

We were also morons and forgot our ropes in the bushes after chucking them off the ledge during our departure. If you found them and are feeling generous, feel free to send a PM.
By dave bingham
Aug 23, 2016

I noticed some unenlightened individual took the grey painted lowering biners from the anchor. Lame. Hopefully a time will come when people understand the concept of fixed gear! It would be great if someone replaced the lowering biners ...

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