|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]|
|FA:||Rick Cashner, 79.|
|Submitted By:||Randy on Jan 1, 2002|
|Comments on Solosby||Add Comment|
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From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003
|Short and strenuous. My partner spotted this line and thought it looked great from the ground, but changed her mind after battling the grainy steep crack above. The grainy hand to fist crack starts 20' off the deck, so gaining it is essentially a high boulder problem. I found it helpful to traverse in from the right on large, positive huecos. The lower face can be somewhat protected (#3 Camalot in a pocket, large Tri-cams might work too). The crack widens to offwidth (at least for smaller hands) for the final 15', so a larger size cam (3-4") can be scooched up to protect the top. I used a small tree and 1" cam for an anchor. Rap as for Bebop Tango. This is one I would not care to repeat. (0 - 1/2 star).|
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Not a standout route, and probably not as good as it appears from the ground, but worth doing if you're already there. Coming in to the base of the crack from the right would certainly be easier, and arguably would be bypassing the crux. Basically go straight up to the crack on huecos, edges, and a key fin on the right. The crack is a little weird for pro right where it starts but it will take ok gear there and good gear a couple of feet above. Most of the crack is fat cups to fists, not perfect hands as it appears from below. Emphasize #3 camalots for your rack, with a #3.5 camalot for the top.
An anchor in the main crack where it ledges out and pinches down/ends will take cams from 1" to 4". Rap off Bebop Tango, or walk off climbers' right down the blocks at the right end of the corridor just right of Bebop.