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Broken Glass T 
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Solo T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tobin Sorenson, 1976
Page Views: 793
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Solo. Climbs the finger crack splitting the lower...


This route lies on the northeast corner of Gateway Rock. Just as you walk into Real Hidden Valley (where the nature trail "T"s, look left and you will see this widening crack in a two-tiered, left facing corner. This is Solo.

Named after Sorenson's free solo FA and in refernce to the short climbing film of the same name.


Up to 4-5 inches.

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 29, 2006

Gear to 2.5"? I haven't done the route but based on the photo....sure looks like it goes to 4" to me.


By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Apr 21, 2008

A 4" might keep you from rolling off the middle tier if you fell on the dihedral layback, but it won’t keep you from hitting the middle deck for all but a couple moves. You’d need a 5 or 6, otherwise you’re essentially soloing the upper section. Same goes for the lower, plug a #1 and go. By the time you get to 2” you’re on perfect jams and you only have 2 moves left to jugs. The only reason for needing any pro for the first half is because it starts on a ledge 20 feet up.

I have no idea where you'd place 2.5".
By Wagreich
From: Long Beach, CA
Dec 24, 2012

Not worth it. Looks beautiful from the ground, but much of the rock is crumbly and exfoliating, and there's not more than about 10 moves to the whole thing (once in the lower crack). The descent is MUCH longer than the time taken climbing it, and is NOT trivial.

If you still want to climb it, make sure to bring a #5 camalot, otherwise you're in decking territory past the second or third move on the higher platform. You could use some offwidth technique, but it seems more appropriate to layback. Just my 2 cents.

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