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First Amendment T 
I Don't Want No Scrub T 
Never Alone T 
On the Fence T 
Saratoga T 
Second Amendment T 
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Solar Grace T 
Solo, Gracias T 

Solo, Gracias 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: 2012ish
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 30, 2014

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Description 

Climb up the short vertical crack (same as Solar Grace ), then up a brief open book onto dicey friction leading up and slightly right to a break in a small overhang. Go through the break, following a crack system and good knobs to a right-facing "gong" flake right of the belay tree of Solar Grace. Climb up and right along the flake (watch out for wasps in the summer), reach a vertical crack, and take that to a large ledge with a tree anchor toward its right end, at the base of a higher wall.

V1 5.10a PG (May 2016): Begin as for Solar Grace, in the vertical crack on the left edge of the moss-infested corner. Climb up crack to shelf, then straight up vanishing seam to reach a bolt on the steep slab on the right side of the open book above the seam. Traverse across slab (crux) to join the standard line's knobs. The initial bolt provides TR-like feel to the crux traverse, after which a couple more tame the 5.7 knob-hopping. From there up, the going is well-protected with trad gear.

Location 

Start same as Solar Grace, at a vertical crack on the boundary of a grossly dirty slab 40' right of Second Amendment's obvious clean, long slab.

Protection 

The beginning attempted to go up the slab, but it is too filthy and wet, so the line veers onto the unprotected outside corner just left of it. After this section, pro is good. The variation avoids the mess altogether, ascending the crack of Solar Grace before moving right onto the original line's knobs, with bolts that protect the traverse and the otherwise unprotected 5.7 knobs to reach the cracks above.
May want to bring two or three 2 - 3" cams.


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By JSW
May 18, 2016

Jay has added some protection and cleaned this route up. It is much nicer but I think with one significantly harder move. From the top of the short open book you can clip a bolt (long reach failing to clip this makes the route R) Make a tenuous no hands traverse under the bolt felt high 9 or low 10 but I was following so if I fell I would have only completed the move. Up on easier ground past a couple of new bolts and take original route to top.
By Jay Harrison
May 20, 2016

Yes, the original R start is now safer - and avoids the slimy moss corner - via a bolt-protected variation. Free-climbing it involves a 10a friction traverse following a PGish clip of the lowest bolt.
However, if it isn't against your "religion", tension-traversing across using that first bolt to reach the knobs provides a nice 5.7 A0 climb.

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