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Unsorted Routes:

Solitary Confinement 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Larson, Derek Lawrence
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,512
Submitted By: Derek Lawrence on Mar 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Me on the headwall....


Climb the arete past sharp holds then up blocky terrain to a rest ledge. Tread lightly on the blocky rock above the 4th bolt. Clip the 2 bolts at the bottom of the headwall (the lower bolt keeping the rope out of the way). Make hard moves onto the headwall, then face climb up pockets/edges to the top of the headwall. May be slightly easier for taller climbers. Finish up at the anchors at the nice ledge. Lower or rap 80 feet.

Caveat Emptor: While I did clean the loose rock in the area around and above the 4th bolt and nothing has come off while climbing it, there is still the potential for stuff to come off. Packs, dogs, kids, etc. should be kept out of the alcove at the bottom of the route....


Start 15 feet left of Minimum Security.


10 bolts plus anchors.
Anchors: 3 bolts, 2 new with chains, 1 old.

Photos of Solitary Confinement Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric on the headwall.
Eric on the headwall.

Comments on Solitary Confinement Add Comment
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By eric larson
From: aurora, co
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fantastic route with fun moves on beautiful rock on the headwall! Save some skin for this new must-do Shelf route!
By Johny A
From: Aurora . CO
Apr 15, 2009

Thanks goes out to Derek for a great line. Never mind the ledge, the climbing on the upper wall will have you smiling all the way to the chains! Definitely a must do.
By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Jun 9, 2009

Way to go, Derek! Glad to hear you sent it! I look forward to trying it.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 10, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Strong work, Derek! That thing is hard!
Congrats on your send!
By Fred Bonnard
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really not as sharp as 2 months ago: stronger finger or natural erosion? Very fun sequence on headwall and all my skin left....
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2016

Being able to stem out to the opposing wall just a wee bit right of the crux is the only reason this route doesn't get four stars. Going directly up on the face is better movement and consistent with most 12b's I have done at Shelf, similar to say, "New Ethics". Quality movement on the headwall....

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