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(m) Taboo Area
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A Handful of Harpies S 
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Original Sin S 
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Solidarity  S 
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Solidarity  

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 155'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Dec 8, 2016

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

We only climbed to the first anchor, which is at approx 100". We did some extensive brushing, as the route was absolutely filthy. The extension looked worse but possibly good climbing.

To the first anchor felt mid 5.12, with a defined crux 1/3 of the way up moving in/out and across a shallow depression. It's very difficult to hang a draw on the bolt at the top of the crux.

We thought that it climbs quite well...after we cleaned it ;-)
There are a couple drilled holds and some glue but surprisingly not a ridiculous amount of choss. Although, still be careful at a couple jugs and off route footholds here and there.

I'm posting the route in hopes others climb it to keep it clean and perhaps clean the upper part!!!

Location 

Right side of Taboo Area. Starts on the right side of a huge rust colored flake. Two lines left of Momentum.

Protection 

I forget how many draws to 1st anchor. 22 bolts total to top.


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