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Sole Fusion 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,513
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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An old dowel from the solo FA.

Description 

Instant classic testpiece for the friction climbing crowd. 27 years in the making. Tackles the biggest, baddest sweep of open rock on the face.

Location 

Left side of the face. Rap the route 3x with two 60m ropes.

Protection 

Listed in this database as a trad route but it is well bolted. A few pieces in the sub 1" size will make the diagonal crack of P1 feel better, and Camalots are needed higher up, as noted in the guidebook. About 10 draws for the bolts.


Photos of Sole Fusion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A sloppy belay for Garth B. on the penultimate pit...
A sloppy belay for Garth B. on the penultimate pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Garth B. considers his scant options at the first ...
Garth B. considers his scant options at the first ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is P1 of It Ain't Over and Touch the Earth. I...
BETA PHOTO: This is P1 of It Ain't Over and Touch the Earth. I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following P2 of Sole Fusion.
Following P2 of Sole Fusion.
Rock Climbing Photo: More old hardware from the FA.
More old hardware from the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Sole Fusion.
Starting up Sole Fusion.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yea, it's that smooth.
Yea, it's that smooth.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sole Fusion climbs up along the tree shadows on th...
BETA PHOTO: Sole Fusion climbs up along the tree shadows on th...

Comments on Sole Fusion Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 16, 2014

This route is awesome, the best of its kind in the park.

You need #0.5 and #1 Camalot for P1. After that, it's all fixed until the last pitch, which requires a #3 Camalot. The P4 belay requires #1 and #2 Camalots.

As of the beginning of Sep, 2014, the top anchor is missing. You'll need some long cord to re-establish this.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Nov 18, 2014

This route is very, very good. There are tons of real friction moves which are hard to come by in such quantity at any climbing area. I thought the first three pitches were the best and can be done in two with a 70m rope.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 24, 2015

The top anchor was removed...again. There's a new fixed anchor 30' right; look for bolts just over the lip. This straightens out the rappel too. The raps are 40m, 45m, and 50m.

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