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Soldier of Fortune 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer 2001/2002
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,258
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Soldier of Fortune is on the right.


Soldier Of Fortune is a classic, technical face climbing route which favors out of the box thinking, and good footwork. And for some may lead to a battle of nerves, as some sections of the route require you to keep a calm head, and find some tricky placements at good stances, however you are a ways up in the air at that point.

Start to the right of Smiling Jay in a large open dihedral. Cool holds, and good stemming lead you to a bulge with a series of large rails which take you out right past the first bolt to a good stance. Move up onto the zig-zagging rail, clip the second bolt, and you are into the crux. Pick your way through some rad moves, devious holds, and the last bolt.

After the crux section paddle your way up stellar, positive holds and 5.9 terrain keeping an eye out for gear. Follow the seam system up through a section of welded flakes, and one more .10- stem crux with very good gear just below the anchors.

This was the first route I established at the Waterfall and is still one of my favorites. Once you know it, it's one of those lines you can do over and over, and enjoy it every time. Don't miss the hidden pocket rest stance out left, just before committing to strange crux at bolt # 3....


Right side, middle section


3 bolts, TCUs, #2 camalot, small/medium wires.

Photos of Soldier of Fortune Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Janes.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janes navigating the thin section.
Janes navigating the thin section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes gunning at the crux on his onsight run,...
Josh Janes gunning at the crux on his onsight run,...

Comments on Soldier of Fortune Add Comment
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By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2013

So I finally got a proper anchor on this line, and it only took me 13 years or so to get it done... Darren M., Wade, and I cleaned up the top of this thing today as well, and it simply adds a classic finish to an already classy pitch. Thanks for the help boys, I can cross that job off the never ending list of things to do!
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Classic waterfallness. A little bit chossy at the crux though! watch out
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2013

The choss you speak of Mr. brown has been removed.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 23, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Sir Schlick i thank you! I need to give this climb another lap and most likely another star!

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