|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Colin R on Apr 17, 2010|
|Comments on Solarium||Add Comment|
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By Derek Doucet
Aug 10, 2016
|A great pitch, though calling it a crack climb is a stretch. There are certainly some critical jams required but most of the route is face climbing, some of which is very steep. The crux is bolted, though there is plenty of challenging gear-protected climbing as well. The start involves climbing an awkward crack and flair to reach a high bolt. This section presents you with a choice: Get gear in high enough to be worth a damn and fill up a useful jam, or make committing moves past the jam looking at a somewhat concerning ledge fall before plugging gear in after leaving the aforementioned jam. A long stick clip also works! After that, the bolted section is excellent and technical, while the gear protected second half is steep and intimidating. There is enough solid gear to make the whole thing reasonable, but one definitely needs to climb well above it in places, and to have the hang time to get it in from very steep stances. The route takes the most continuously overhanging section of the 82 after all, and there really aren't any rests until the real business is over just below the anchor.|
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Oct 16, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Derek is pretty spot on in all points. My two-cents, this is the hardest of the three 12b routes in the book (Beyond, Doggfather, Solarium).
The gear is there on the upper part but you'll need the hang time to fiddle with it to get something that will work. The stance above the last bolt presents the first opportunity to plug gear in. On an on-sight, throw in at least two pieces as they have to work (I put in three even on the redpoint). The gear above is good but it is very fiddly and it helps knowing you have bomber gear below.
Gear to 1.5" with some additional large stoppers will provide you with enough to be able to protect the route.
A red camalot at the start provides the gear to reasonably protect the moves to the first bolt but you'll want a belayer who is worth a damn.