Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Sun
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Lock Next Time T 
Garden Party AKA Sketch Book T 
Halogen Angels T 
Solar Flare T 
Summer Solstice T 

Solar Flare 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andrew Barnes, Dustin Dyer, and Todd Bol
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 387
Submitted By: tbol on May 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pulling the changing cracks move. Thanks to Dusti...

Description 

This climb is a nice addition to the crag. The climb was done ground up and took two attempts to figure out the improbable first crux.

P1. Climb up a dirty and friable slab without much pro to gain an offwidth directly beneath the changing cracks crux. There is an optional belay stance at the start of the offwidth but could be skipped easily. Continue up the offwidth until it turns into easy fingers. Find a big jug and do a crazy move out right to gain the really steep hand crack above. Continue up on good jams and thrutch into the "snake pod". Build a hanging belay in the pod with big cams. (5.11)

P2. Continue up through the pod and fight the relentless, rattly fists crack above. Arrive on ledges below the offwidth pitch on Better Lock Next Time. This pitch is a real joy. If it sees a few more ascents and cleans up, it will become a bit more user friendly. (5.11+)

P3. Follow BLNT or climb the steep 10 hand crack to the left and figure a way up Garden Party.

Location 

This is on the left side of The Sun directly beneath the finishing pitches on Better Lock Next Time and Garden Party.

Protection 

Lots of #3 and #4 Camalots, a few #2s, #1s, #0.75s, and a single rack in the smaller sizes. Bring plenty of finger-size gear if you want to try Garden Party.


Photos of Solar Flare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Snake Pod and the P2 fist crack of Solar Flare can...
Snake Pod and the P2 fist crack of Solar Flare can...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me about to do the changing cracks crux.
Me about to do the changing cracks crux.

Comments on Solar Flare Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -