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Social Security Ran Out 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Skip Harper, Rob Kelman, 1993
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: bart cubrich 1 on Jul 18, 2014

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in an obvious crack system on a boulder. Continue to follow this crack system for the duration of the route, though the crack peters out in several locations. When the large ledge is attained below the offwidth exit, there are a number of ways to finish the route, and a belay could be plugged here if rope drag is too high. The climbing is easy for the beginning of the route and gets harder in proportion to the poor quality of gear. Supposedly the crux is the offwidth exit (5.8), but if you are not a confident slab climber...do not attempt this route.

V1 A variation of this route finishes on the neighboring route Reverse ? Mark (5.7R). Move into this route by following the overhanging bulge/crack halfway up Social Security Ran Out to the right, instead of continuing up.

Location 

This route starts just right of Ladder on a small boulder.

Protection 

Standard rack, lots of slings, and some micro nuts.


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By bart cubrich 1
Jul 18, 2014

I found the crux to be some slab moves getting up a more vertical slab section. I placed the small blue and yellow Black Diamond micronuts and equalized them, I but will never know if this would have held a fall, since I made a strong effort not to fall. This could be 5.8+.

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