REI Community
Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Chill, The S 
Cave Man T 
Deja Vu S 
Desp-Arête S 
Falcon Corner T 
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 
Fryable T 
Insane in the Brain S 
Klein's Girls T 
Not Bosched Up T 
Radiation Babies S 
Shadow, The T 
Social Realism T 
Whiskey and Weed Power S 

Social Realism 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gary Olsen, Chris Pendleton and Stuart Ruckman, 1988
Page Views: 3,191
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jul 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting Bolt... For Social ... MAYBE?

  • Park your car off of the main canyon road.
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route makes the drive, the hike and the risk of being struck by a large falling rock in the Shooting Gallery...WORTH IT! Continuously difficult for the rating, vertical with technical and commiting movement, complete with an airy finish and a view to remember. The limestone is golden colored and not as compact as other routes. There are still a few loose rocks on this route.


    Climb up the Shooting Gallery (the gully between Towers 2 and 3). The talus is loose here and gives way to a ramp. Social Realism is the second route from the left on Tower 2. The belay ledge is decent.

    Note: The Ruckman Guide shows this to the left of The Big Chill, but it's wrong.


    8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor with multiple slings and 2 rings (shared with The Big Chill). A few small pieces up to a .75 bd help protect the start. I would also recommend a yellow Metolius in a 4 inch slot for a belay anchor, just in case the leader falls before making the first clip. WEAR HELMETS!

    Photos of Social Realism Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The view just gets better...
    The view just gets better...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Riddler getting closer
    The Riddler getting closer
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Riddler reaching for the good stuff
    The Riddler reaching for the good stuff
    Rock Climbing Photo: Stayin socially real...
    Stayin socially real...

    Comments on Social Realism Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By tenesmus
    Jul 23, 2006

    I did this again on thursday and it really is a great climb. I felt the rock quality was better than most up there (outside the cave). Also, the last bolt was gone (as of 7/20/06) so you have to run it out just a little to the anchors. You can see where a rock might have hit it and knocked the hanger off. The rock around it was flaked around the face of the hole but remains solid. The anchor part of the powerbolt was in place but the actual bolt and hanger were gone. That part of the climb is not any harder than the rest of the route and eases up a couple of feet past the bolt to maybe 5.8 for the last 10 feet of the route. If you've done everything else on it climbing those finish jugs should not be a problem at all.

    oh - and an orange metolius might fit well in that crack too.
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 14, 2007

    Ryan, I think you have these routes backwards. Social Realism is the route on the right (second from left). Both are great!
    By David Shiembob
    From: slc, ut
    Jun 17, 2007

    the book has social realism on the left, I'm pretty sure. Pretty hard for .10a limestone, but a good route. There are a couple of hand sized holds just waiting for someone to pull them off near the top.
    By Stan Pitcher
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 27, 2007

    Well I climbed Social Realism several times before the route to the left of it showed up. I have the old Wasatch North guide that only shows the Social Realism route and Ruckman's description surely is for what now is the 2nd route from the left. If the newer guide, shows Social Realism on the left its a rare mistake...
    By John Steiger
    Aug 7, 2007

    Ruckmans' 1998 edition shows Social Realism as the furthest left bolted route, but it seems obvious from their route description that Social Realism is in fact the second bolted route from the left. Their description says to use cams or nuts to reach the first bolt; no gear is necessary -- or likely possible -- to get to the first bolt on the farthest left line, which must be The Big Chill.
    By Crag Turkey
    From: Holladay, UT
    Aug 2, 2016

    A favorite at Hell gate for sure, Movement is really fun and the rock pretty bomber! Love the section of black limestone you go through, reminded me of the style on Devil's Castle. I would say this is pretty spot on for 10a. Its not a sugar bagged 10 so if your a gym climber this one may challenge your foot work in particular. Also doesn't really climb like your typical limestone route. A must top out sort of route.
    Just to verify this is incorrectly listed as the left most route in the ruckman guide AND in the new Granite guide (makes you think that one may actually be the other/ either way the right of the two seems like Social realism to me see comment above, you wont get gear in on furthest left route). Social realism is the second from the left and better quality rock and bolting then its left neighbor in my opinion. I plugged a #1 prior to the bolt, but probably better just to sack up (or put your big girl pants on) and go for that beautiful 1/4 incher. Don't worry they get shinier the higher you get :) Big chill can be used as a direct start if this isn't your cup of tea.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About