Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Staggering Rock
Select Route:
Sobriety Test T 

Sobriety Test 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Steve Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, 1991. FFA: Ralph Ferrara, Steve Bartlett, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Wild Man Bornholdt about to enter the gaping maw o...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


A real mixture here. PItch 1 is face to awkward chimney, pitch 2 classic spooky Monument Basin face climbing, pitch 3 steep well protected crack, and pitch four slightly spooky face moves on "good" rock. The summit, if it still there, is rotten, and getting onto it is rather undignified. The free version of this route follows the aid version, except the first pitch, which takes a wide chimney/flare just right of the aid start.

Begin on right side of north face, under this chimney/flare.
1. Boulder up the awkward face to the chimney, which is easier than it appears. Up this to a ledge system on the west arete (5.10a, 50').
2. Move left, then up a short crack. Step awkwardly left onto a ledge, and traverse 15 feet left. Climb straight up (crux) to a niche under a protruding block, surmount the block on its right; belay (5.10c R, 50').
3. Up the obvious crack, passing a 5.11a bulge, to the shoulder (5.11a, 60').
4. Thin face gains a higher shoulder, and a two-bolt anchor (5.9 R, 20').
5. Climb to the rotten summit (5.7 R, 20').

Descent: Reverse the summit pitch to the bolt anchor. Rappel north 190' to the ground.


Gear: wires, two sets of Aliens, (include one Black (0.33") Alien), two sets of Friends and/or Camalots from two-inch to #5 Camalot. Include an extra #4 Camalot.

Photos of Sobriety Test Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Staggering Rock north side
BETA PHOTO: Staggering Rock north side
Rock Climbing Photo: "Bomber" gear on the second pitch!
"Bomber" gear on the second pitch!

Comments on Sobriety Test Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2005

Hey "crusher" - Any idea how many ascents this thing has seen? I had a fun (and scary) time soloing this last weekand judging from the webbing at the rap anchors, and thesingle old chouinard biner I'm thinking not to many!I replaced the webbing and biners. Downclimbing the summitpitch-sans pro-was a litle unnerving, what with the 40 mphgusts going on! Great semi obscure tower...

Miles Newby
By Brent Higgins
Oct 4, 2005

Hat's off to Crusher (and the great Dr. Bornholdt who dragged my sorry arse up this!) as this made the Doric seem like granite!

Also, thanks to whomever re-did the anchors!
By Bryan Bornholdt
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2005

Miles, I trust that we have you to thank for the "recent" webbing at the top. Thanks.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!