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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bo Diddley T 
Cruising for Bulgar T 
Dreams Of Darkness T 
Dreams Of Light T 
Good Cleavage T 
Marsupial T 
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 
Sick and Wrong T 
Sugar Glider T 

Sobo Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.9536, -105.29954 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,502
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 25, 2002
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  • Description 

    Sobo is another rare "wilderness setting" within Eldorado canyon. There is a string of summits extending from Rincon to the north/north west, including Cadillac Crag, The Veil, Physical Crag (and Split Block), Diamond Head, and Sobo, which is the most remote and probably the least visited of these. My partner left a pair of sunglasses at the base of a route there in July of 1996. I picked them up in February of 2002. The most recent printed guide listed only 3 routes at Sobo, although there are now at least 6, with potential for a few more, particularly if someone want to do a few hair-raisers. Top-roping at Sobo would be difficult. 3 of the 6 known climbs are stellar crack single-pitches, and would have climbers cued up like Calypso if they were close to the road; they are worthy of a hike in for a day of climbing. Much like the other crags in this summit chain, it does not see much traffic, even on holiday weekends. The setting is a nice, and may be the best place to go if you fear crowds in Eldo.

    From the Eldorado Trail, Sobo looks like a large Triangle, just West Diamond Head, and East of the summit cliff-band of South Boulder Peak. Sobo faces predominantly South, and gathers light all day. The climbs are mostly pure crack, such as Good Cleavage, Cruising For Bulgar, and Dreams Of Light, the two moderate routes, Marsupial and Sugar Glider, involve some runout face climbing. All 4 of the 6 known routes on this rock would be or are starred routes in the local guidebooks, but none see much traffic.

    Descent: To descend after climbing, scramble and walk left off of the top around a corner to the northwest, and then down to a tree with a red sling. Rap 50' from the sling to the ground and then walk back among the corner to your packs. This is an easy descent and should take about 5 minutes. Some down-climbing could be eliminated with another sling around the uppermost tree.

    Getting There 

    From the Eldorado Canyon Train, starting as for Rincon or Cadilac crag, passing the Rincon cut-off. Continue on the trail until you are directly below Diamond Head, then scramble uphill over talus to reach the base of Diamond Head, then traverse West to Sobo. This should take about 60-90 minutes. There are some sections of marked trail (cairns) down from Diamond Head, but even from the top down, these can be difficult to follow, and you may end up just wandering down the hill. Although there is not much of a trail, the hike is much longer than it is difficult, if you make it a point to avoid any thickets.

    Climbing Season

    For the Eldorado Canyon SP area.

    Weather station 1.6 miles from here

    10 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Sobo

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Sobo:
    Good Cleavage   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   
    Dreams Of Darkness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Dreams Of Light   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Sobo

    Featured Route For Sobo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb leads Good Cleavage, at Sobo.  Photo by ...

    Good Cleavage 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Colorado : Eldorado Canyon SP : Sobo
    Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest-facing prow is obvious. Good Cleavage is a stellar crack and right-facing dihedral system that ascends the right side of the prow. Although the crack in the dihedral looks wide, a finger crack runs up the right side of the dihedral near the corner for most of the length of the climb. While some large gear is [desirable], an offwidth rack is hardly necessary. A solid 5.9 leader could probably manage with all smaller gear, though there might be some space bet...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Sobo Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rincon Wall up to Sobo Buttress, Land of Plenty.
    Rincon Wall up to Sobo Buttress, Land of Plenty.
    Rock Climbing Photo: SoBo as viewed from the east.  Chaos Canyon is bel...
    BETA PHOTO: SoBo as viewed from the east. Chaos Canyon is bel...
    Rock Climbing Photo: SoBo as viewed from the west.
    BETA PHOTO: SoBo as viewed from the west.
    Rock Climbing Photo: SoBo--the southern prow, where most of the routes ...
    BETA PHOTO: SoBo--the southern prow, where most of the routes ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Left crack is Cruising For Bulgar, Rt-facing Dihed...
    BETA PHOTO: Left crack is Cruising For Bulgar, Rt-facing Dihed...

    Comments on Sobo Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Kirk Petersen
    Jan 31, 2009
    SoBo Buttress is now subject to the birdie closure for Shadow Canyon, lasting from February 1st through July 31st. According to a January 2009 city press release: "This year's closure includes climbing areas west of the Shadow Canyon closure for the first time."

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