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Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bolts T,TR 
Blown Out T 
Chummin' for Splatter S 
Clean Sweep T,TR 
Crack, The T 
From the Ashes S 
I Love L.A. S 
Magic Feather S 
Moon Doggies T 
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 
Sob Story T 
Teetering TR 

Sob Story 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Reese Martin & Dale Buckstaff, 1987
Page Views: 896
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: This is the far right route on the left side crag ...

Description 

The first half of this route is marked by long reaches between good holds on excellent rock (at least by area standards) and goes at solid 5.8.

The second half of the route follows easier moves up softer rock. The finish is airy and exposed.

All in all a fun route!

When setting a top rope, be sure to clip quickdraws to the top two bolts as directional protection for the climber. Historically, a few climbers have taken scary wings off the route to the right.

Protection 

Three bolts and 2 questionable gear placements protect more than 90 feet of climbing. Only the boldest of climbers will want to lead this route.

Two 1/4" bolts (at 30 and 60 feet respectively) were replaced in late 2005. The first bolt is now a 1/2" Rawl. The second is a 3/8" wedge-bolt. The top of Sob Story is now protected by two sets of anchor bolts--two placed by Reese Martin in 1999 and two 1/2" Rawls placed in 2006. The rock at the top of Sob Story is coarse-grained and extremely soft (it can actually be scratched with a fingernail). Might be wise to use both sets of anchors when building a top-rope.


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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 20, 2013

Personally, my favorite route at the crag. Awesome movement. And a proud lead!