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Soap on a Rope 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  TR, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,312
Submitted By: joshf on Dec 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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I drilled anchors on this route but did not find the climbing to be good enough to warrant drilling it for lead. There are several ways to do this route: mantling up the smooth slab and working rightleads you to a large roof with somewhat chossy rock, pulling over this is probably a 10- move, perhaps more difficult for shorter people. If you move left and go through the smaller section of roof, there are several very small, difficult to find crimps that create a one or two move 5.11. One can also move very far left to a small section of crack that is probably 5.6 or so.


Directly opposite of sentence to hang on the short towerlike formation. To toprope it just walk back up on the normal trail and walk over to the edge where you can see the anchors for the new 12's. Look down and you'll see bolts on the tallest part of the formation.


There two bolts with hangers at the top. Since you have to go to the top anyway, just put draws on and grab them on your way out.

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By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Dec 27, 2007

If anyone wants to name this climb feel free to make some suggestions, I'm not sure that anyone has climbed the top section of this route, although i have seen people boulder the bottom part so for the FA I don't really know who to give credit.
By Chen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Short but fun climb. The beginning part of this climb is tricky if you are not 6'4". At 5’10” I kind of mantled and hopped onto the flat step with my right foot. For the top part, if you go left it’s pretty easy, but if you go up over the roof it is definitely a 5.10 move. I have climbed it both ways.
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Jan 17, 2008

Also, if anyone feels that this should be drilled for leading say so, i may have been a bit over critical with my original opinion.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Jul 7, 2008

In the 'Protection' field, what are "protection hangers"? Are they ribbed for her pleasure? Hmm...I like that as a route name.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 25, 2009

I don't think this route should be drilled for lead, the way it's set up I can't see room for many bolts anyway. Fun little route, I wish there were more this easy to toprope on Lemmon. Lemmon is lacking climbs friendly to little kids.

As for a name, I would call the route "Bi-Focal" due to how smooth the bottom is and the huge texture change at the halfway mark. If you wanna stick with a prison theme I'd call it "Handball".
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Sep 5, 2009

My vote for a name is " soap on a rope" , smooth slippery part and it's a TR. My brother came up with it and I felt it was worth posting. Great climb either way, I love jailhouse. Climb on guys (:
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 12, 2011

I like "Soap On A Rope". The rock is soooooo slick, smooth, and slippery that even chalk doesn't help. :)
By Jake Croft
From: Tucson, Az
Jan 6, 2013

Soap on a Rope makes sense, you could also call it "let off easy" because it goes with the prison theme and anyone starting to lead 5.10 is let off easy and gets to toprope it

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