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The Dungeon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5000 Candles in the Wind T 
Backdoor Man S 
Branching Out S 
Executioner, The T 
Implements of Destruction T 
New Beginnings  T 
Number of the Beast, The S 
Rat Dance T 
Ride Around the Block T 
Soaked in Sin T 
Tanuki T 
Uncertainty Principle , The T 
Unshackled S 
Zed's Dead T 

Soaked in Sin 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Montgomery, 10/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Monty on Sep 2, 2013

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Photo by Adam Bove

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Soaked in Sin is both bouldery and sustained. The rock down low isn't pretty, but the climbing is fun and the rock gets better and better. Stick clip the first bolt, and crux your way past 4 bolts in to an off width pod that. Find a trick rest, clip one more bolt, then enjoy the steep fingers to thin hands crack to the chains.

Note for cleaning: Be careful unclipping the 1st bolt if you trammed in as you will be taking a violent swing toward a tree. The best option is to bring a stick clip that allows you to retrieve your draw from the ground like the superclip or the squid. This allows you to tram in cleaning everything but the first bolt, then "tram"out out and down to the ground in a controlled manner. Then all you need to do is use the stick clip to retrieve the draw on the first bolt.

Location 

This is between Zeds Dead and New Beginnings.

Protection 

5 bolts, single rack from 0.3-#2 with doubles from .4-.75. This route was originally done with 3 bolts, but the gear in the offwidth section was never confidence inspiring due to the fractured nature of the rock.


Photos of Soaked in Sin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the crux and into the splitter.  Photo by Ada...
Past the crux and into the splitter. Photo by Ada...

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