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So-o-o Swe-e-et T 
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So-o-o Swe-e-et 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: rob bauer on Nov 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Front view; Sooo Sweeet follows left skyline crac...

Description 

Not my route, but it's the very next buttress up right from Samson and Dalieback. Book said "double cracks," but I'd call it a discontinuous crack. Fun side pulls and adequate pro. Bulge near the top may be the crux.

Location 

Next buttress uphill from Samson and Dalieback. Slightly smooth start. Had to hunt for the anchor bolts on the top which are out of sight to the right, below the lip.

Protection 

Standard rack up to about a #1 Camalot.


Photos of So-o-o Swe-e-et Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sooo Sweeet buttress? Gosh, I sure hope so since t...
BETA PHOTO: Sooo Sweeet buttress? Gosh, I sure hope so since t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Totally don't know if this is the actual route, bu...
BETA PHOTO: Totally don't know if this is the actual route, bu...

Comments on So-o-o Swe-e-et Add Comment
Show which comments
By Desicon
Jul 14, 2017

Thanks for bringing this route back to public attention! This climb was put up in 1990 by Tom Weaver, Bob Flaugher, and Robert Pippin, about the same time they did "Samson and Dalieback." I have not done this climb since about '96, think I'll try it again, as soon as it stops raining...
By Hannah Burson
Sep 1, 2017

Totally don't know if this is the route, but I did it and it was super duper fun! Its on the left side of the same formation as David and Goliath. For gear, I ended up using one of each BD #3-6, two 2's and a #1. I used anchors for what I assume is David and Goliath, which were way to the right and thus had horrendous rope drag when cleaning. Since I don't think it's been climbing often, there were a good number of baseball-football sized rocks, so wear helmets!!! Don't let the small offwidth scare you off, I hardly used and OW technique with the exception of arm-bars for rests and mostly stemmed. Super fun route with super cool movement and bomber gear, I loved it!

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