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So Honed Yet So Stoned 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Apr 14, 2002

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Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property MORE INFO >>>


I'm glad my partner lead this one!! Im not sure if I got the name right since I dont have my book with me. But, this sits on Honed Rock. If looking at Sphinx from the road, this is approached the same way, but, sits about 100-200 yards to the right.

When you get to Honed Rock, this is the line of bolts that goes through a steep slab dissected by a roof/overlap. Climb up slab past 2 bolts to the overlap where you can place a mid sized stopper. Pull over the roof, and you still have a few sketchy moves before the next bolt which protects the crux slab moves. Go past one more bolt to the top. Walk off left. This one probably deserves an "s" rating as well due to the run out slab moves... Pretty stiff piece of slab climbing!


About 4 bolts, but, bring a couple nuts for the roof/overlap. Safer as a TR.

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By Guppy
Jun 10, 2003

I saw a few of the boys hammerin' away up there, sounds like new bolts to me.looks like another hippie debate about saving the children's future and the rest of the nonsence that follows.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 8, 2003

Replaced the top two old quarter inchers with 3/8". Used the same holes. I don't add bolts to existing climbs like some folks.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 19, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun climb right off the ground! Climb the difficult slab about fifteen feet to an old 1/4" bolt, then climb another 15 feet to another 1/4" bolt, then run it out about twenty five feet to a decent hold(the only one so far), slot a couple of small stoppers, work right then up to a stance. Place two marginal(VERY marginal) small cams(I used a #1 and #2 Metolius - these cam placements wouldn't hold a cat), climb up onto the slab under the newer bolt, make a committing move and clip the bolt.

Now the fun begins. From the bolt, head straight up on very difficult slab to another newer bolt about ten feet higher. Climb the remaining 5.7 slab to a big boulder.

Fun with hard, slabby moves!

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