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Medicine Bow Peak Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Along the Watchtower S,TR 
Amnesia T 
Gooseneck Couloir T 
Marie Couloir 
Overhang Direct T 
Red Spot T 
Red Spot Alternate Start  T 
Sidewinder T 
Unsorted Routes:

Medicine Bow Peak Area Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 41.3408, -106.326 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,761
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Petsfed on Mar 22, 2006  with updates from Davin Bagdonas
Forecast:
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Diamond Face from the Mirror Lake area.

Description 

The closest alpine-ish climbing to Laramie, the Snowy Range (and all of its climbing) is visible from downtown Laramie. All of the climbing is on the east-facing slabs south of Medicine Bow Peak. Most of the climbing starts around 10,500', with many routes beginning above treeline. According to Jaquot's book, technical routes started going up in the 1950s, and continue to this day.

Long (up to seven 200' pitches), less-than-vertical quartzite routes, sometimes on bone-white stone. It's been said that higher grades are impossible in the Snowies, with their abundance of holds. Be prepared to run it out on all climbs. A standard rack is a single set of nuts, and a single set of cams from very small to 3".

Getting There 

Take Snowy Range Road (Curtis Street) west out of Laramie to Highway 130. Follow this all the way to Lake Marie, where the shortest approach seems to start from the aptly named Lake Marie recreation area. A faint trail winds out of the picnic grounds to the edge of a scree slope, at which point it's cross country to the base of the routes. From the top of the routes, walk south until you reach the Medicine Bow Peak trail, and walk off from there.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 10.6 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Medicine Bow Peak Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Medicine Bow Peak Area:
Red Spot   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Medicine Bow Peak Area

Featured Route For Medicine Bow Peak Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking south towards the Snowy Range rock climbin...

Gooseneck Couloir AI1  WY : Snowy Range : Medicine Bow Peak Area
One of the shorter proper couloirs in the Snowies. Climb between the couloir between two rock pillars, passing an island of rock near the top. Climb increases in steepness from about 35 to 40-45 degrees throughout the climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Medicine Bow Peak Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the 'Diamond' from Lake Marie in the ear...
A view of the 'Diamond' from Lake Marie in the ear...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Side of Diamond Peak
North Side of Diamond Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond.
The Diamond.
Rock Climbing Photo: Medicine Bow, June 2008.
Medicine Bow, June 2008.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Williams in no man's land, The Diamond.
Joe Williams in no man's land, The Diamond.
Rock Climbing Photo: The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Mir...
The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Mir...
Rock Climbing Photo: The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Lak...
The face to the right of the Diamond Face from Lak...
Rock Climbing Photo: Diamond Face from the E side of Lake Marie.
Diamond Face from the E side of Lake Marie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Diamond Face from Lake Marie.
Diamond Face from Lake Marie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looser stuff to the R of the Diamond Face.
Looser stuff to the R of the Diamond Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking W towards the climbable rock.
Looking W towards the climbable rock.

Comments on Medicine Bow Peak Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Nov 27, 2007
Anything to the right of that pillar is dangerously loose since the major rockfall a few years back. Also, Skip's page is a little error prone as far as beta goes, and pretty error prone as far as names go. There's a guidebook available in Laramie at Cross Country Connection written by Ray Jaquot. The topos are pretty much impossible to read, but the route descriptions are pretty good.
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 22, 2010
Hey Brian,

Just wondering if you could edit the page so adding areas are available? I would like to add Diamond Peak, MedBow Peak, etc. as areas so we can distinguish routes with mountains. I just don't want to have 2 Snowy Range Areas.

Thanks :)
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 22, 2010
Actually, I should ask if it's okay if I make a new area and just copy all your info/pics over?
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 24, 2010
Actually, years ago I tried to do precisely that, but then they deleted all of my empty crags since nobody else wanted to post up, and I had really hazy memories of my time on old Main and Triangle Buttress. You can totally take the info though, for whatever its worth. You'll have to ask the other people who posted photos though, I don't claim those. Maybe try contacting one of the area managers?
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Oct 26, 2010
Well thats a bummer!! But yeah I might try to reorganize the Snowy Page or something, cuz I would like to go up there sometime and put up new routes and have a place to record them lol. So i'll ask around, and see if we can't get this Snowy page looking good.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 26, 2010
Like I said, contact a mod/area manager/admin (whatever they're called around here). They're usually pretty responsive when it comes to suggestions for making the site better.
By Portwood
From: Your moms house last night
Nov 21, 2010
Just went on a scouting trip to find possible ice. Any one know of any ice/mixed routes? Ive found some potential routes but it looks like all the snow gets blown off the summit so the potential for good ice to form looks a bit grim.
Rock Climbing Photo: Potential Snowy Ice?
Potential Snowy Ice?
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Nov 22, 2010
There's those left leaning gulleys on Triangle Buttress, and I've seen a short bit of blue ice on the right side of the big amphitheater below University Avenue (in the center of your picture). I've not heard of anyone climbing them though. Grunge Gulley (the couloir between the Diamond and Diamond Buttress) occasionally freezes up, but its more a challenge for skiers than climbers. We also get pretty good snow climbing, provided that the road opens while its still in good season. Part of the reason there isn't much info is because you need a snow mobile or a 3-day weekend to be able to get to any of these climbs, and to be honest, I've yet to meet a snow-mobiler up there who carried an avy-beacon, let alone a set of ice tools.

Also, this early in the season, the cornice hasn't formed up yet, so you can't see it. Those gulleys do get a lot of moisture.
By Davin Bagdonas
Nov 10, 2016
In regard to the Snowy Range being the primary page and adding all else as smaller areas within the Snowy Range, PLEASE DO!

Maybe the routes on Medicine Bow Peak can be placed in a Med Bow Peak tab and other areas can be added? The 4 stories area is a sport crag that would also have its own tab under the Snowy Range page.

I have several dozen areas (boulders and routes) to add that would be individual tabs!!! All which are in the Snowy Range proper.

Thanks Brian for working on this!