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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Dick Williams and Art Gran, 1970
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: Kurtz on Oct 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: P2 from the belay at the top of P1.


There is a granite spire in the Bugaboos named Snowpatch Spire that has a permanent snowfield on it. The Snowpatch rock route passes just left of the snow. According to Swain, this was the inspiration for this climb’s name, which has a bit of white rock that looks like snow. We didn't notice it, maybe you will. Based on the water marks on the wall, it looks like it can be wet after rain. Having now climbed both routes, I will say the one in the Bugaboos is more memorable.

P1: Climb the corner and traverse right near a small mountain laurel below the pine tree with rappel tat and the ledge with a large block. It's your choice whether to go around right (easier, watch the rope drag) or through (harder, less drag). Continue up above the ledge past the second pine tree/rap station to a gear or tree belay at the GT ledge (140 ft.). 5.5

P2: Not really a pitch, more of a bushwhack. Scramble up over a curved pine tree then head 40 ft. left around some bushes to reposition the belay below a left-facing corner at the left end of a dark roof (40 ft.). 5.1

P3: Climb the corner, then up the face to a large overhang. Bypass the overhang to the left (very spicy crux) and head to the top (80 ft.). 5.5 PG


Starts in a large, right-facing corner (with a 6" crack in back) at the left of the wall with Sente and Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct. See this Photo.


Standard Gunks rack. You don't need big gear for P1. There are small cracks.

Photos of Snowpatch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Snowpatch
BETA PHOTO: The start of Snowpatch
Rock Climbing Photo: Victim of ground fall?
Victim of ground fall?
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark gets ready to traverse right on P1.  Notice m...
BETA PHOTO: Mark gets ready to traverse right on P1. Notice m...

Comments on Snowpatch Add Comment
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By Eric Lutz
Oct 28, 2015

The crux move on Pitch three definitely had me going "5.5?"!I didn't see great pro before making the step out
By Kurtz
Oct 29, 2015

Agreed, Eric. That move is closer to 5.7 PG. P3 of Red's Ruin is an easier alternative.

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