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Elevation: 9,793 ft
GPS: 50.73667, -116.78162
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Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 3, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Warning Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The impressive Snowpatch Spire is the most obvious spire when entering the Bugaboo's. It stands just to the west of Applebee campground and is host to over 50 routes from 5.8 to 5.12. The largest wall on Snowpatch is the east face with routes ranging from 12 to 15 pitches and almost all of them being big wall in nature. The south, west and north faces boast numerous classic free routes such as the popular Snowpatch, Surfs Up, Kraus-McCarthy and Sunshine Crack. Snowpatch Spire is also the most difficult spire to climb with no routes to the top rated under 5.8.

Getting There Suggest change

All routes on the west face are approached via the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col located on the north end of Snowpatch Spire. After climbing over the Col walk south to your desired route.

For routes on the north face follow the trail from the campground or hut toward the Col and north face is to your left once your in the Col.

The east face is obvious from the hut and the campground.

The south face is accessed via the Bugaboo Glacier. There is a trail to the Glacier from the hut, but from the campground its fastest to just scramble over scree straight toward the Glacier.

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Snowpatch Spire Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Snowpatch Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner/W…
Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Buckingham Route (easy version)
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Wildflowers
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 73
Surfs Up
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Kraus-McCarthy
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Flamingo Fling
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Furry Pink Arete
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
Super Direct
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 105
Sunshine Crack
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 19
Minotaur Direct
Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 8
Sendero Norte
Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snowpatch Route (aka SE Cor…
 61
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 17 pitches
Buckingham Route (easy vers…
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Wildflowers
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Surfs Up
 73
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Kraus-McCarthy
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Flamingo Fling
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Furry Pink Arete
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Super Direct
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Sunshine Crack
 105
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Minotaur Direct
 19
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
Sendero Norte
 8
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 14 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Snowpatch Spire »

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