Snow Canyon State Park Rock Climbing
Snow Canyon State Park
is in the area of the city of Saint George
, perhaps an hour from the heart of Zion National Park
This large state park boasts a little of everything, from short sport clip-ups to mixed multi-pitch routes or even long, infrequently traveled adventure climbs. I have only sampled the area, but am writing it up here to get the ball rolling. The crags are sandstone, some reminiscent of the good stuff at Red Rock
, NV, some resembling the softer formations of Zion National Park
, and some fit for climbing by only the truest of desert rats.
No matter if you are chasing sun or shade, or wanting crimpers, slopers, pockets, or an occasional crack there are climbs of various flavors facing in any given direction at any given time of day, depending on which crag you are at. The Island In The Sky
area sports the Aftershock Wall
, Circus Wall
, The Doghouse
, and other walls with good sport and mixed climbs. The West Canyon
area has adventure routes and much adventure potential for those looking for touble and in possession of an emergency bolt kit. The nearby town of Saint George has plenty of services and hotels as well as nearby 'improved camping' at Snow Canyon State Park
($14 in addition to $5 daily entry fee) or free camping just outside town on BLM land.
The following guidebooks contain more details on the area and the park: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition
; Rock Climbing Utah
; and an article in Climbing
magazine #225 (article by Tim Kemple).
The directions for each individal crag will be more telling, but to reach the state Park entrance, exit I-15 on the Bluff Street (I-15 Exit 6) in Saint George. Go north a few miles to the Snow Canyon Parkway, then left on that for 6 miles to Highway 8, then right (north) on that for ~3 miles into the park. Maps are available for the park at the entry kiosk where they will collect your $5 entry fee.
I kid you not, these directions are listed under the 'season' section of the Goss guidebook.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
54 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Snow Canyon State Park
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Snow Canyon State Park
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Snow Canyon State Park:
Featured Route For Snow Canyon State Park
Leopard Skin 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b UT
: Saint George
: ... : Sand Dunes
Can be done in 3 pitches with a 50m rope - but 4 will reduce the rope drag.Route Description update as of 8/14/16. The route has been rebolted there are only about five pitons left, otherwise all new bolts with 3 bolt belay stations. The first belay station above the crack was removed so the climb is now three pitches. P1: Climb the slab past 2 pitons to gain access to the left facing corner crack. Climb to the top of the crack then traverse about ten feet to the left on the slab above th...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Snow Canyon from up on The Richness of it All
New multiple pitch route "Hero" on the u...
BETA PHOTO: A map of the crags in Snow Canyon. Free at the vis...
Looking West from the Enclosure
Blurry ( due to rain) look at the canyon coming do...
Joseffa Meir walks in to Snow Canyon for a cold mo...
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 10, 2004
Two summers ago a couple friends and I grabbed our climbing gear and hiked into snow canyon. We found a sweet rock that had definitely not been climbed before. Climbing sandstone is a lot harder than climbing granite as we soon found out. We still had a great time and we plan on going back this spring (04). If you are only looking for climbing try nearby Zions park, but if you want unbelievable scenery topped with some great day-hikes snow canyon is your spot. The crappy thing is they wont let you backpack in and campout, they want you to stay in the "designated campground" with all the other shmucks. Plus they charge you five dollars admission plus $14 for a tent spot, per night. My advice is go to nearby gunlock reservoir and stay there for free. It isnt a very scenic place to camp, but it gets the job done. Good luck.
TD from Salt Lake City, Utah
By Ben Folsom
Nov 29, 2009
Be sure not to bring dogs here expecting to climb, as all the climbing area trails are closed to dogs.
Mar 9, 2012
Hey I am just wondering if theres anything to top rope?? Taking my family down there tomorrow thanks
Mar 21, 2014
I'm getting ready to explore this area for the first time with a group of friends next weekend. I was wondering if anyone would be willing to share some useful beta on camping options near Snow Canyon State Park? I just called the BLM office, and they were unhelpful to put it nicely. The MP post mentions dispersed camping on BLM sites - does anyone have any more info on this?
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2014
There is nice camping in the park, or there was last I knew anyway. It has been a while, but $14/night wasn't bad for a picnic table, trash services, fire ring, and toilets... it might be more now - probably.
There is camping outside of town on public land. I took this photo (below) from a little road we camped off of the first time I was there climbing at Chuckawalla, on the way to Vegas.
I'd say call the climbing shop, or stop buy there to buy a few bars and ask.
The Town of Saint George & some of it's surrounding crags, as seen from a mesa above, where there was once free camping... Photo by Tony Bubb, 11/03.
By Garrett C
Nov 26, 2016
Probably one of my favorite places to go when its snowing up north. St. George in winter always seems to be around mid 50s, so its perfect to climb some nice sandstone when you are getting bummed in the cold. Great camping and some fun multi pitch and slab routes. Never have had a bad time here.