REI Community
El Dorado
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Gold S 
Brown Smoothies TR 
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 
Kindergeist T,TR 
Nuggets S 
Olas Negras S 
Poltergeist TR 
Snooze T 

Snooze 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Jeff Salmon
New Route: Yes
Season: 05 August 2008
Page Views: 116
Submitted By: Matthew Geyer on Aug 6, 2008

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Jeff on FFA. (Sorry, for the quality, it was getti...

Description 

The first ten feet of the climb are nearly vertical, with incuts and slopers. After that you'll find jugs and good footholds. Your first (and only) protection is twenty feet up, so it's a runout with deck potential. All holds are good ones though.

Location 

Snooze is the farthest route on the left of the north side of the El Dorado formation. Belay from the flat area at the base of the other climbs. Begin the climb after scrambling up the slab eight to ten feet past the base of Nuggets.

Protection 

Place small pro in the flake 20 feet up (backed up with second small piece on adjoining flake), then run it out to the anchors. Set a small nut in the horizontal crack at the base of the climb for a directional before you start.


Photos of Snooze Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Snooze.  Circle marks pro placement.
BETA PHOTO: Snooze. Circle marks pro placement.

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By Matthew Geyer
Aug 6, 2008

Doug Roberts had the FTR of this route and he suggests a directional up top would eliminate the pendulum potential when TR’ing off the Nugget anchors. A small cam in a horizontal crack would do the trick.

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