REI Community
f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asphodel T 
Bag's End T 
Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
Blueberry Ledges T 
Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Don't Shoot T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
Friends and Lovers T 
Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

Snooky's Return 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft, 1958
Page Views: 7,405
Submitted By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (162)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Halfway up the first pitch.


Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in the rappel line for both Beginner's Delight and Minty - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have passed. But I digress ...

The less-climbed second pitch goes up a shallow left-facing corner above the belay bolts to a rooflet, under which you traverse left. Up a steep face with some reachy moves, then up and right following the path of least resistance to the GT ledge.

The quite-less-climbed third pitch, while short, is fun and exciting: on the GT ledge, walk left to the base of a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner underneath the roof, and escape right, continuing on to the cliff top.

Descent: from the clifftop, use a tree anchor to get to the GT ledge, between this route and Minty. From the GT, there are 2 two-bolt anchors: at the GT, and mid-cliff at the top of first pitch.


Start at a thin crack in a cove of trees 50' right of Beginner's Delight.


P1: Mostly smaller nuts and/or cams. Consider zipper potential, and possible groundfall potential from the low crux (a #3 BD stopper works well).

P2 and P3: standard rack.

Photos of Snooky's Return Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: David Burnette leading pitch 2 of Snooky's Ret...
David Burnette leading pitch 2 of Snooky's Ret...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cleaning
Rock Climbing Photo: nice seam for micronuts
BETA PHOTO: nice seam for micronuts
Rock Climbing Photo: Into the crux
Into the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Snooky's Return (5.8 variation - the 5.7 ...

Comments on Snooky's Return Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tim Schafstall
Apr 2, 2008

Don't cheat yourself on this climb by rapping after P1. Although not done as often (and even less now that there bolts atop P1), P2 and P3 are good fun.
By Spiro
May 10, 2008
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

great climb, second pitch wandered alittle, be aware of rope drag.
By GMBurns
Sep 4, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I thought P2 was more 5.7, but it was still just as fun as P1. P3 is a one-move wonder (typical Gunks hand traverse under a roof), that may be worth doing if that's your thing. The rest of P3 is bland.
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I agree; I definitely think P1 offered more challenging climbing and gear placement than P2, but the entire route is worth doing!
By David Stowe
Sep 2, 2009

I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice.
By doligo
Jun 28, 2010

There are no longer rap rings above Snooky's on GTL or on top. Rappel either from the top of Beginners Delight or walk to Madame G's chains.
By Steve Moulding
From: New York
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice climb, no problems. Seemed more like 5.7+. Gets very steep before the GT ledge but the holds are good.
By Luc-514
From: Montreal, Quebec
May 28, 2014

first pitch is sweet, sustained and PG
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 10, 2014

P1 is a fun climb, the crack eats nuts. P2 is thoughtful and I felt a bit reachy (until you find the hidden hand). P3 was just easy peasy fun. ONce at the top, to the climber's left is a tree with rings slings. Two 60's will get you to a ledge with simple and easy walkoff. I did not find P1 PG. I was able to put three small nuts in through the crux.
By jdonigan
From: Brooklyn
Nov 21, 2016

didn't see it on here but p1 linked with p2 is possible with a single 60m and makes for a nice long pitch. be mindful to extend some placements and drag shouldn't be an issue. great climb!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About