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Snnfchtt T 
Wilderness of Edom T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira & Charles Cole, 1981
Page Views: 520
Submitted By: Kyle Wills on Feb 1, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Right crack of two that make up the Prominent crack to the right of Leaping Leaner.

Start directly to the left of a large boulder in which the 10b Gunks West starts on. (good luck on that one)

The Crux is definitely the moves right off the deck. After about 9 ft of climbing you enter into a crack with just bomb-tastic hand jams.

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By Stormeh
Feb 11, 2014

The start is definitely harder than 5.8. I thought it was harder than any of the moves on the 10b to the right of it, for what it's worth. I also though moving from the stance below the crack was harder than 8.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 16, 2015

To people that did this route years ago, has it changed? Start was not even close to an .8 on 11/15/15.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Nov 16, 2015

I don't recall the details but I would first and foremost note the standard J-tree adage: the first ten feet don't factor into the rating of many of the climbs (or something to that effect)
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Dec 2, 2015

I haven't done the 10b to the right, but based on what I expect from 10b's, I think Stormeh may be spot on.
I've done weird routes in JT, but this one has been one of the bigger surprises.
By BrettAtBond
Nov 6, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not recommended for the budding 5.8 leader or those who aren't comfortable placing gear in flared cracks.

After the first 15 (or so) feet, the pro is solid and the terrain lowers over to easy 5th.

Several options for gear anchor, hand sized or larger.

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