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The splitter crack on pitch eight
Ignoring the intro pitch to access the headwall, an extraordinary, steep alpine route from start to finish, linking a series of stellar and varied cracks in a very logical line.
Never a dull moment. Perfect rock from start to finish.
Grades go at 4c, 6c+, 6b+, 6a+, 6b, 6a+, 5b, 6b, 5c - although the pure crack pitches (pitches 2, 3 and 8) will probably seem soft for those who are proficient in jamming.
For a complete topo, refer to the filidor guidebook "Schweiz Extrem Ost".
The climb begins at the north-facing base of the 3rd Feldschijen tower, about 20 minutes below the base of the pronounced west ridge.
There's nothing marking the start, but look for a pronounced recess / chimney feature. As of summer 2014 there was one colorful sling near the end of the chimney where the terrain begins to flatten out into a plateau underneath the headwall.
Descent is by abseil.
Anchors are fully equipped (also for abseil), and the pitches typically have 2 or 3 bolts - all high quality material (rebolted in 2012).
Complementary gear placements abound. Guidebook recommends cams 1-4 double and a set of rocks. Unless you are cool to run it out a bit or backclean, it is particularly helpful to have several #2s.
Furthermore, we were not unhappy to have had a #5 to bury in the offwidth section of the crux pitch.
Pitch six, with the splitter hand crack of pitch 8...
Signature pitches two and three of the route, foll...