|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|FA:||Hendriks & Callaway, 1983|
|Submitted By:||Richard Shore on Mar 6, 2011|
|Comments on Snidely's Whiplash||Add Comment|
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By Scott Scharfenberg
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 22, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Led this route on 10/20/2013. I didn't feel that the runout was desperate enough for an R rating. Sure, a fall would've resulted in some cheese grating, but that's true for all slab. I've certainly been more runout on more challenging slab (Revelation, at Suicide Rock) and it wasn't considered R-rated. Maybe I'm just crazy. I will clarify though--this ain't no sport route. If you're used to sport climbing, make sure your belayer is prepared to be sprayed with feces as you attempt this climb.
Pro was pretty much as-described... I think I placed a #2 or #3 C4 down low and shoved a #1 Link Cam into a decent pocket higher up before gaining the first bolt. A tricam probably would've been bomber in the pocket where I had my link cam. The bolts look old and rusty but actually feel very solid and there is a good chain to rap from at the anchor.
I find myself questioning the 5.8 rating... compared to other trad routes I've struggled and lurched my way up, this one felt more like 5.7 to me. Then again I'm tall and stretched high for a few moves, so maybe I just skipped the challenging beta.
My partner and I swung leads and continued up after the bolted anchor. He led through some really shitty rock to gain about 20' of awesome climbing, to the top where he slung a giant boulder for the anchor. At one time there were bolted anchors up there, but they've been chopped. The moves through the crappy rock were pretty awkward--I felt that it was harder than the first pitch... probably 5.8+. He placed a #2 and #3 C4 while pulling through that stuff, then back-cleaned the #3 because it was necessary to protect the good climbing. I forget if he placed anything else, but he said he wished he'd had a #0.75 C4 to help with the anchor.