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Micro Crag
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Snicker Biscuit 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robert Hynes, Feb. 1989 (TR), Todd Swain April 1991 (FFA)
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: "Snicker Biscuit". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

In the middle of the steepest section of the Micro Crag are two steep cracks. Begin on a ramp right of the direct line and cross into the initial crack. Move to and finish on the left crack as it opens up. A direct start looks like it can be done (as marked in Vogel's guide), but would be unprotected.

This climb is steep and powerful throughout. The rock is still "developing". High up a large foothold disintegrated beneath me, nearly braining my belayer. A key handhold seems slightly suspect. Nonetheless, a worthwhile climb in an area spotted with worthy ticks.

Protection 

Standard rack, small nuts or brass protect the crux. Descend to the climbers left.


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