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Snapping Station 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, Summer 2009
Page Views: 1,555
Submitted By: percious on Jul 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Chris Perkins on Snapping Station. Photo by Jose ...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Pull through a series of crumbling overhangs to a short roof with an excellent undercling. Pull a few hard moves through the overhang, and watch with amazement as another 'hang appears above. Follow some intricate moves to the second overhang, then pull through and right over the lip to easier (5.10) face climbing.

Sustained, pumpy, long, this is a must do. It is recommended that it be cleaned by a second, since cleaning from the top can result in an unsafe swing.


It is just left of the blunt arete of the lower right butress. Find a well-bolted overhang with crumbling rock at the start.


16? draws.

Photos of Snapping Station Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of lower crux.
BETA PHOTO: Start of lower crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start.
BETA PHOTO: The start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Going into the second crux.
Going into the second crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Holy Crap Wall.  Snapping Station is almost on the...
BETA PHOTO: Holy Crap Wall. Snapping Station is almost on the...

Comments on Snapping Station Add Comment
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By slim
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Difficult to describe gradewise and quality wise, it has a lot of poor rock on it, with the start bordering on comical (although it isn't funny while you are leading it - stick clip the 2nd bolt). However, the climbing on it is excellent.

The crux isn't excessively difficult, but the crumbly feet and being wound up from the loose start kind of added some weight to my chalkbag. Getting in a good position to clip the next bolt took some patience.

Definitely clean the route by TR'ing it - trying to do so on rappel or lowering would not be fun.
By BrendanP Moran
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Don't be discouraged by the first fifteen feet or so of loose stuff, the moves above will give you the best kind of amnesia. Some thoughtful bolt-skipping will help through the first crux as well as help to reduce rope drag above - be safe!
By Tre
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2014

Jumped on what I think is this route last weekend, following the bolt line took me all the way to the top ledge with two sets of anchors. It was probably 16 bolts, though, which makes me wonder if it was Snapping Station. Anyone know if there's a lower set of anchors I blew by? Or maybe I should man up and start skipping bolts....

Awesome route, don't clean on rappel.
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 14, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I thought the anchor of this route could have been placed at the 8th bolt. The climbing above is 5.10 slab (shared with Paper to the right), and really doesn't add anything to the route other than rope drag.

To answer Tre's question: the ledge with two sets of anchor is the proper finish. The anchor on the right is for Snapping Station and Paper, the anchor on the left is for Holy Crap.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 14, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

^^^ Having the anchor higher anchor adds, well, fun, 5.10, slab climbing on good rock. There are definitely some routes at DH that would be better with lower anchors (some stuff on Crimpfest comes to mind), but this is not one of those routes. Personally, I am glad the anchor is higher.
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Nov 24, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

^^^ I agree with you that the slab is fun 5.10 climbing on good rock, and if no other route climbs the same slab, then putting the anchor up there adds something, but there is a 5.10 (Paper) around the corner that climbs the same top section, so anyone looking to do a "fun 5.10 slab" can climb Paper and get much more consistent and enjoyable climbing from bottom to top. For anyone jumping on a 5.12, I doubt that the 5.10 slab at the top is going to be the highlight of the route , and this slab adds much wear and tear on the rope when you're cleaning the draws.
By Matt M Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 13, 2017

There is some good climbing on this route, but it is short lived.

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