REI Community
Snakes Head / S Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptism T 
Big Bite S 
Bourbon Street T 
Desire T 
Geek Feet T 
L.S.A.T S 
Left Leaning Dihedral T 
Moose Bite TR 
Moose Head T 
Pizza Face T 
Rowins Roof TR 
S-Wall S 
Snakes Head T 
Snakes Head Dihedral T 
Today is a Good Day to Die T 

Snakes Head Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking up at snakes head dihedral

Description 

The roof is the crux, moving on smooth rock out and into a layback.

Location 

Climb the Dihedral on the left side of S-Wall next to the Snakeshead.

Protection 

#2 to #5 Camalots, no anchor.


Comments on Snakes Head Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel S
From: Oklahoma City
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

A number 6 cam will make the crux much easier to protect. The number five requires a lot of effort to place and is almost tipped out where you want protection the most.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Apr 24, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Guide Book claims a #5 protects crux/roof but alas it does not so BEWARE.

So this route marks my first down climb... Words can't explain how bad this sucked. Route follows a large crack underneath the Snakes Head in a dihedral. First solid piece of pro is ~50 feet up, think it was a #2 then the dihedral just opens up to a large offwidth crack. Up another 50-60 feet is the roof and the crux. So here I am ~100-110 feet up with one piece 50-60 feet below me, and the #5 not fitting anywhere. Spent a few minutes looking to place anything from the #5 to a micro nut and there is nothing... Two choices #1 try to traverse under the cruxy roof with a slip being a 100 footer deck job or #2 Down climb... arrrg.

I am not sure a #6 would protect the roof here either... I am thinking a Big Bro or a Valley Giant #12 is needed.
By Herndon
Jan 17, 2016

I've heard that there is a cam placement on the upper side of the crack beneath the crux. The crux is a sort of chimney/smear that isn't as hard as it looks. We didn't have big pro back in the day, so this route was a solo. Not a beginner's route.

I agree that this route is scary, though. You need to be pretty solid or you will end up having to downclimb. Serious route.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About