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Snakes Head / S Wall
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Snakes Head Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Nov 21, 2006

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Looking up at snakes head dihedral


The roof is the crux, moving on smooth rock out and into a layback.


Climb the Dihedral on the left side of S-Wall next to the Snakeshead.


#2 to #5 Camalots, no anchor.

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By Daniel S
From: Oklahoma City
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

A number 6 cam will make the crux much easier to protect. The number five requires a lot of effort to place and is almost tipped out where you want protection the most.
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Apr 24, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Guide Book claims a #5 protects crux/roof but alas it does not so BEWARE.

So this route marks my first down climb... Words can't explain how bad this sucked. Route follows a large crack underneath the Snakes Head in a dihedral. First solid piece of pro is ~50 feet up, think it was a #2 then the dihedral just opens up to a large offwidth crack. Up another 50-60 feet is the roof and the crux. So here I am ~100-110 feet up with one piece 50-60 feet below me, and the #5 not fitting anywhere. Spent a few minutes looking to place anything from the #5 to a micro nut and there is nothing... Two choices #1 try to traverse under the cruxy roof with a slip being a 100 footer deck job or #2 Down climb... arrrg.

I am not sure a #6 would protect the roof here either... I am thinking a Big Bro or a Valley Giant #12 is needed.
By Herndon
Jan 17, 2016

I've heard that there is a cam placement on the upper side of the crack beneath the crux. The crux is a sort of chimney/smear that isn't as hard as it looks. We didn't have big pro back in the day, so this route was a solo. Not a beginner's route.

I agree that this route is scary, though. You need to be pretty solid or you will end up having to downclimb. Serious route.

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