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Dire Spire
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Conn Route T 
Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 
Engagement, The S 
Impeachable Offense T 
Punching In A Dream S 
Questionable Ink T 
Snakebite Evangelist S 
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Snakebite Evangelist 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Paul Piana & Heidi Badaracco 11-16-90
Page Views: 611
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 18, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Snakebite Evangelist from the road. Route follows ...

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Description 

Beautiful line on the steep, vibrant side of Dire Spire. Lots of liebacking up the left facing, left leaning "crack". Crux is in the first quarter followed by a decent rest at halfway. Then pumpy 5.11 liebacking to an exciting redpoint crux right before the anchors. This is a stout 13a, in my opinion, and one of the best with awesome exposure. And the large belay ledge makes for a great hang.

Location 

This is the leftmost crack on the steep yellow wall of Dire Spire. The quickest and easiest way to the belay ledge is from the start of 'The Engagement'. Head to the right to a large detached block with a bolt just above it. Use this bolt to lower down to the ledge, where there is a anchor setup. Otherwise you could climb a bushy pitch from down below the ledge, which you may want gear for.

Protection 

Bolts. Chain anchors.


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