REI Community
Fortress Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Crack T 
American Wall T 
Battlement, The T 
Bedtime for Bonzo T 
Blue Runner T 
Bombs Bursting T 
Bonzo's Revenge T 
Calypso I T 
Calypso II T 
Calypso III T 
Fading Memory T 
Fortress Grunges T 
Get Outta My Way T 
Horny Bitch T 
Lost in Space T 
Party Time T 
Route 48 T 
Scratch Your Face T 
Serpent T 
Snake T 
Thunder Chicken T 
Turret, The T 
Where Lizards Dare T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Molzon & Dick Shori, 1977
Season: Faces SE, but gets tree shade at times
Page Views: 2,718
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (131)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ger running up snake 2010-08-29


A great route with the sole flaw of not being longer. This route is pretty good and offers good protection.
Negotiate your way up to the shallow slot above the small tree a body length above the ground, then pass the crux getting out of the wide spot and into the crack above. A set of anchors is at the top to belay and rap from.


Walk left in the main amphitheatre about 1/2 way to the end, passing the distinctive American Wall and American Crack. Continue on the trail passing between a large flat boulder and the main cliff and around a small protrudance a short distance. You will immediately pass a left-facing corner (Calypso III) and then see a right leaning crack with a small tree growing on a chockstone near the bottom of it. The crack is briefly a slot, then goes to a more uniform crack and more vertical above. This is the route "Snake, 5.8."


A rack of stoppers and cams to 3"

Photos of Snake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the crux on Snake.
Exiting the crux on Snake.
Rock Climbing Photo: The cruxy offwidth section down low. Takes good ge...
BETA PHOTO: The cruxy offwidth section down low. Takes good ge...

Comments on Snake Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Feb 21, 2007

You can build a top rope anchor and extend it directly over the crack. This is the best way to top tope. The bolt anchors are too far off to the right and the rope rubs along a rough edge with loose stuff. Of course with a directional and a top belay it's no problem either.

I concur with Tony, great route!
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

One of the nicest lines I got on at Fortress. The transition from the flaring chimney to the crack above was the crux for me. Need to lead it next time.
By Michael McClarty
Mar 20, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

this was my first ever trad lead. I thought the route was thought provoking and demanding on protection at cruxes as the placement usually occupies a predominant handhold or foothold. trust your feet and there's a rest on every move!
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014

Approach route winds up at base of this climb.
By JD Borgeson
May 27, 2015

saxfiend: there is a jug right at the top of the chimney section kind of back a bit. but I was able to use it to turn around and literally take a sit down rest in the chimney. look for it next time.
By peterkd5bwt
May 27, 2015

Great route, accurate grade and great protection. Current bolts/rings are conveniently placed just to the left at the top of the route and appear to replace the old (off to the right) bolts, of which only one remains.
By PatrickBecerra
From: Hazel Park, MI
Feb 23, 2016

At the top of this you can go left through the wide crack, or head out right on big jugs and edges. Very fun climb, good for newer 5.8 leaders.
By Ian Flener
From: Louisville, KY
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Its not crucial at all but the top of the wide section takes the #5 you spent all that money on and never use.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About