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Devious Nature T 
Snake Hipped Mistress T 

Snake Hipped Mistress 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Equip Larry Shaffer. FA Chris Hirsch & Tony Schwartz, 2014. FFA Chris Hirsch, belayed by Taylor Lais, 9/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 153
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 27, 2015

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Just after the gear section

Description 

A wildly exposed arete that Shaffer regrets not finishing. He had 95% of the route complete. Tony and I were able to finish the route without adding any bolts. This line is hard right off the belay, especially gaining the fourth bolt (bad fall potential). After the fifth, go left around corner into crack. Place some gear then three bolts lead to the redpoint crux. Find a small RP placement and exit right to the anchors.

Location 

W side of spire. Climbs the arete/dyke. To get to belay, climb Devious Nature first then scramble over. Rap down chimney to the SW, 70m rope. Scramble back to Devious Nature's rap.

Protection 

8 bolts
Small rack, Nuts/RPs, micro cams up to .5
Bolted anchor w/ webbing.


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