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Babareena Area
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Babareena Pass S 
Caterpillar Exodus S 
La Babareena S 
Snake Flake S 
Snow Doubt  S 
Snow Doubt (to the first anchor) S 

Snake Flake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Devries, 2003
Season: summer
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: kyber on Aug 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Climber on Snake Flake.

Description 

fairly sustained, tech climbing. lots of trusting of the feet with little crimps and odd pockets, fun!

Location 

start on flake just left of babareena pass (a wandering crack) after flake turns into face climbing. new climb to the right?

Protection 

10 bolts + one drop in and one chain. very weird to get lowered or rap off. the last link of the chain is higher than the drop in, so your basically lowering off one bolt.


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By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 15, 2015

This route is terrible. Sharp and unpleasant, I can't recommend this to anyone. Also, what was the equipper thinking when installing that abortion they left as an anchor. Take your rappel device and a good luck charm for the descent off of this route.
By Wilburn
From: Cheyenne, WY
Jul 4, 2016

Interesting climb. Decent warm-up if nothing else is available, but overall it is better left alone. The anchor and awkward belay position take a lot of the fun out of this route.
By Seb303
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2016

I thought the route was fine and great sustained climbing at the grade. Anchor could be better, but hey it works.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Aug 17, 2016

I saw a couple of these anchor setups at Ten Sleep. If you add a leaver-biner to the end of the chain, then it equalizes nicely with the shut. Perhaps people are stealing the leaver-biners, leaving the chain dangerously higher than the shut? In other words, if you thread the chain, under tension the rope will slip out of the shut.

The problem would be solved if the chain was 3-4" longer. Until it's fixed, this is a single-point rappel/lower-off.

The route itself is quite sharp and not fun.
By K Gustafson
Sep 4, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I actually thought this route was a classic. Tiny sharp holds on slab with a lot of friction feet. The rock was really wavy and I found myself using a lot of obscure pinches. The anchor could be better.

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