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Snake Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Rauch, Bryan Smith, 4-26-05
Page Views: 3,115
Submitted By: Ebb Ebbing on Jun 7, 2009  with updates from Nathan Collins

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Leading up Snake Face.


Very fun ledgy climb with some short steep sections.


Partially bolted (5 bolts), but some additional gear to 1" required. Use a small nut on the runout section between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Then use gear to protect above the 5th bolt, as you move up and over to the anchors. (1 small nut between 2nd and 3rd bolt. 2-3 small to medium nuts/cams at top).


2nd route, but first bolt line, to the right of the rock tower. Goes up the face just to the left of the 2 roofs. Anchors are a bit off to the right, above the second roof.

Photos of Snake Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Griffin battling the elements on a rainy winter mo...
Griffin battling the elements on a rainy winter mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snake Face.
Snake Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading into the crux on Snake Face.
Heading into the crux on Snake Face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of Snake Face from the belay platform...
BETA PHOTO: Another view of Snake Face from the belay platform...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Snake Face from the Belay Platform.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Snake Face from the Belay Platform.

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By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Nov 13, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I usually run it out through the second and third bolts. The climbing through this section is pretty straightforward and easy. The mantel move to get up and around the roof makes even pretty strong climbers think for a second. From here, you can try to continue up the crack (easier), but you'll have to scramble around a bush. I usually move my body into the crack and then make a really exposed, airy step to the right onto the face. You might be able to move onto the face sooner, but I've never tried it.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 23, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I climbed this for the first (and probably last) time last week. Nothing special. Runout in the middle protects ok with a thin nut. I wouldn't trust it with a big fall, however the next bolt is only about 5-6' above. Getting into the dihedral can be tricky, without small cams it's tricky to protect. Once in the dihedral, transfer to the right side, and larger crack, and follow that to the anchor.
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 14, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I take 2 pcs of gear for this route and use them after clipping the bolts. A micro cam such as a BD X4 0.1 or similar will work at the roof, so will a micro nut or if you are good with gear you can sneak a BD 0.5 into the wider bottom section of the roof crack but it needs more finessing. The second cam I use after the roof exit and that's a BD 1.0 in a solid crack placement.
By tsherry
From: Portland, OR
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed it yesterday. Someone got an small TCU stuck in a crack, I clipped that for fun and backed it up. For between 2nd and 3rd bolt I went with a blue metolius, would have probably been fine running it out to the third bolt, but if you're dragging up gear, might as well use it. After the bolts I placed a small nut and a #1 before exiting right. Up there it gets a little bushy, then I remembered to go right and saw the anchors. Not a super special climb, but if you want to use your trad gear, give it a go.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
May 9, 2016

I think the route finally swallowed the TCU. RIP, Little Buddy.

Do not try to run this thing out! Despite the 5.9 grade, there is a good 20 or 25 feet from the last bolt to the chains and the climbing is very committing. Bring at least two pieces of gear, potentially a 1 or 1-1/4" cam between bolts 2 and 3 and definitely some sort of pro when climbing over the roof, though I didn't see what it needed.

Scared and Stupid on Snake Face
By Louie
From: Portland, Or
Sep 25, 2016

The runout after the last bolt is huge. My partner got nervous at the bottom. I would recommend heading up with gear.
By Bill 1552
From: Portland, OR
Jun 4, 2017

Not a sport route despite the bolts on the lower half, definitely would want gear for the upper section. I went with a small nut just above the roof and BD 0.5 and mid-sized nut higher up.
By Paul Losch
Jul 25, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

All-in-all a fun route, pretty straightforward until the moves above the last bolt. Fun, exposed climbing moving right to the anchors after getting gear in. I'm new to trad and had a little trouble finding the right gear to protect around the roof. Ended up getting a small nut in, followed by a small cam. Placing was from a bit of an awkward stance, too.

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