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Snake Charmer T 

Snake Charmer 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C1 [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Watch out, some of them are pretty loose!


This one is kinda grunt, mostly free but each pitch has its own kind of character, that I have no doubt not all will equally enjoy.

P1: The entrance exam - what starts as a messy, sandy, insecure, rattly fingers and tight, thin hands splitter up a gently overhanging wall for thirty feet gradualy rolls back over to slightly less than vertical, thin hands and hand crack to a nice ledge. This pitch will eat medium-sized hexes in a few places, so bring them. (5.11) 80' +/-.

P2: While you belayer ducks under the overhang, thrutch up the grungy corner to a good stance and the start of the wide splitter in Indian Creek quality rock. Go up the splitter (5.10) into the deep chimney and onto the crux where the chimney pitches down again. Fight the exposure as you work your way up this notch and into the next large pod. (5.11 TR) 80' +/-.

P3: Just off the belay, go around the arete into a thin, gently overhanging splitter that rapidly goes to wide. Go up to a ledge through another wide overhang and up the final 5.9 thrutch to a twin tipped summit. (C1 5.9) 70' +/-.

This was named after a long time local who has since moved on. Man, JB, you got a great imagination!

We really had fun on this one. Maybe it was our state of mind, who knows? It was freezing cold, snowing horizontally at times, sunny at others. This is a rare tower summit and a super imposing line up a shield of dark, red sandstone. Have at her, and maybe you too will have what it takes to be a "Snake Charmer"

Descent: three rappels with a seventy meter rope.

It should be of note, that on the way out, if you skirt the cliff band directly from the tower, you will be rewarded with an awesome Otto route up through the first overhangs. We roped up and short hauled the bags, you probably should, too! It's bold and 100 years old! Follow the line of least resistance up through to the rim and you find more of them. If you planned ahead, your rope will be there for you and you can "mountaineer" up through this last section with your pack on!


This route goes up the dark red colored South Face of JB Tower. The descent and climb are easily visible with a five minute walk East of the Cold Shivers Overlook.


Singles from #0.1 to #6 Camalot / triples in the #0.5 - #6 Camalot / hexes / long runners / 70 meter rope.

Photos of Snake Charmer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Weird, wasn't it just snowing?
Weird, wasn't it just snowing?
Rock Climbing Photo: The descent.
The descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Doesn't that look like fun?
Doesn't that look like fun?

Comments on Snake Charmer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Zacher
From: Grand Junction, Co
Aug 11, 2012

While trying the first pitch with the JB Local back in the day, he kicked a softball-sized rock off that hit me on the forehead under the helmet sending me reeling with some stars!
By Jason N.
From: Grand Junction
Dec 3, 2012

Cool tower and a great summit.

One note though: if you decide to free the last pitch, you may want to fix a rope to the anchors at the top of the second pitch. Or you can make sure you have some swinging momentum to bounce into the "cave" at the top of the second pitch. I did neither and ended up hanging in space. Fortunately, the ropes were able to reach a ledge where I built an anchor and my partner was able to get to the anchors after me.

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