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Snake Charmer 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Craig Estes and Paul Sloan, 1992
Page Views: 992
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Aug 18, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Shot of the climb


Mellow face climbing leads to big holds going out the overhang. Things get interesting around the end of the overhang. Continue up the face above to anchors.


Jimmywood. Start up the approach trail to Bear Mountain Picnic, but continue going uphill to a short wall on the right. The route begins in a corner capped by overhanging rock. Look for the bolt line starting on the left face of the corner.


6 bolts, anchors

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By willeslinger
From: Golden, Colorado
Aug 30, 2010

Gave this sucker a try yesterday. The fist three bolts are really fun and pretty exposed, but the roof is KILLER. I couldn't get up and over it onsight, I'll go back and redpoint it sooner or later.

Be warned though, you have to use a loooooong runner on the first bolt if you want a to have any slack for clipping once you reach the roof, but, this pretty much makes the first bolt useless. Don't fall until you reach the second bolt if you can help it, have some spotters ready just in case too. It's a rough walk out with two working legs, it'd be hell with some broken bones.
By Swamp Cookie
From: da Bayou
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route. Short but sweet.
By nickmartino15
Mar 18, 2017

Great climb.

5.6 slab climbing, leads to easier, but pumpy 5.9/5.10 roof (the roof probably sticks out 10-12 ft. The couple moves pulling the roof were definitely the crux for me, especially after being pumped from the roof. The last 8-10 feet were mellow with lots of jugs.

As of March 2017, bottom 4 bolts were rusty. Fell on one bolt and it worked fine.

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