|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Nate Ball on Dec 22, 2012|
|Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>|
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Oct 30, 2013
The glue in was broken roughly around 2008, not long after installation. The bolt broke after the climber took while about a foot above, but luckily the closely-spaced bolt just below held.
Inferior steel, perhaps. Poor installation may have been the culprit too. In either case, it is the only glue-in breakage in the area that I heard of.
If in doubt about the bolts, bring a handful of camming units in the finger to tight hands range. There are plenty of options for placements on the first pitch, I don't recall the second very well.
By Nate Ball
From: Portland, OR
Nov 4, 2013
|According to Matt's book, the bolts were placed in 2002. They are the bolts that Dirk and Edgar used on all their other routes - a 304-steel made by Ferno. They are considered dangerous and should not be trusted.|
From: Taipei City
Jun 21, 2014
The 2nd pitch is just as good as the first and goes grat on gear but has spicy but safe runout at one committing section.
2nd pitch anchors now do not have chain but slings in various states of wear