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Sex Canyon
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Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 
Bolus S 
Dark Energy S 
Friends and Lovers S 
High Anxiety S 
Hyper Salvation S 
Learning to Crawl S 
Learning to Fly S 
Let Them Eat Flake S 
Love is a Fist S 
Mistaken Identity S 
No Recess S 
Pulmonary Choss S 
Snaggletufad S 
Super Cruiser S 
Telegraph Road S 


YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Rupesh Chhagan
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: Jesse Bruni on Apr 28, 2017

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The reachy start of the crux


Starts on the rock mound left of Learning to Crawl. Grab a good incut flake to start which is a few feet to the right of an obvious stalactite, then move through a tough and reachy boulder problem to get through the bulge.


Two routes left of "No Recess". Recommended to stick clip #1, and the 2nd bolt of O.R.A.L (Route immediately left of "No Recess") as a belayer directional.

The end of the route is arbitrary. If you've clipped the 2nd bolt you've climbed the 13b, and adding the 5.7 climbing above the 2nd bolt will add absolutely nothing to the grade. It's possible to climb up and traverse over to the anchors of O.R.A.L. to clean but that can be a pain in the ass. The other option is to clip #2, climb as high as you feel like is necessary to claim a send, then downclimb, unclip #2, and lower off #1. If you were able to put #1 up with a stick clip you should be able to take it down with a stick clip too.


Two bolts + rope directional bolt. No Anchors

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