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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Michael May (May-2004)
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Michael May on Aug 11, 2006

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Steep and powerfull, shares first four bolts with Power Lunch then moves left.


8 bolts to chain anchor

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By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Now with perma-draws. Wanders too much to be a classic IMO but still a solid route with a lot of fun moves. Technical crux is soon after you leave the ground as you traverse L across a balancey face. Continue traversing until you are under the roof and take a no-hands rest. There is some loose rock in here so be careful. I pulled several chunks off but a big loose flake and some other pieces remain. After your rest, traverse R out the corner of the roof and gain the crack to traverse back L. Getting the theme yet? At the end of the traverse you will land on some crimps and the end is in sight. Pull up into an undercling under the next roof and then try and blow through the last roof on pockets (redpoint crux). There are a lot of options and if you pick the wrong pocket you may be going for a ride. Once over the roof, gain your feet and clip the chains.

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