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Smugglers Run 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
Page Views: 247
Submitted By: Trevor Cox on Sep 8, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The left most boulder is the Kingpin boulder, wher...


Kingpin boulder. Great problem on solid sandstone. Starts low with small holds and a nice right foot, big first move to a right hand crimp, then working your way up and left to the balancy crux portion in a two finger pocket, big move to the top for a giant victory jug.


Furthest boulder from the road, just uphill from the largest and first boulder you run into. Walk the small trail created by the river, up and around the rock to the left and down into a little nook.


Couple of pads

Photos of Smugglers Run Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me climbing the route catching the two finger pock...
BETA PHOTO: Me climbing the route catching the two finger pock...

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By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Sep 9, 2015

Just some info to consider Trevor. I and at least 6 others have climbed that problem and most of the others back in 2005. The whole climbing gym group have been up there climbing until we got tired of the crumbling rock. Also Darren, Tony, Juan Carlo and Trad Bob had all climbed there years and years before us. The chances of any FA's at this point are very slim. Trad Bob has most of the original route names it you'd like to ask him.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Sep 9, 2015

Yeah, Jon makes a strong point. That said, way to be psyched. I'd hate for FA-fever diminish any enthusiasm for reinvigorating old problems. The usual suspects of Ojai climbing have tapped many of the obvious areas, but that doesn't mean they aren't worth revisiting.
By Trevor Cox
From: Ojai, California
Sep 9, 2015

Thanks a ton Jon! Honestly appreciate the info and update! I'll change when I'm off work and try and get in contact with Trad Bob! thanks guys.
By Bob Banks
Sep 11, 2015

Reese climbed here in the 90s. Wills probably did as well. So did I, a grand total of twice. I last went after the fire in 01 or 02, I forget, it got pretty cleared out of vegetation so it was easier to walk around. It's pretty hard to justify stopping to climb on super-choss when you're so close to Pine Mt.

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