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Smuggler's Notch

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Smuggler's Notch Bouldering 
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Smuggler's Notch Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.55625, -72.79428 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 86,962
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 27, 2006  with updates from rogerk klinger

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Andrew Messick going for the crimp bouldering &quo...

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review


Home to dozens of amazing ice climbs. The area can either be very busy or totally empty - it's safe to count on a small crowd though.

Getting There 

Park on Rt. 108 where the road ends (seasonal road - don't try to drive up it, tickets are typically around $150 and the State Troopers love to hand em out).

Ski, snowshoe or hike up the road a mile or two to get to your climb - the climbs are obvious and located on both sides of the road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

160 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',69],['2 Stars',67],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Smuggler's Notch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Smuggler's Notch:
The Obtuse   V1 5     Boulder, Alpine, 25'   Roots Boulder Area : The Roots Boulder
The Fin   V1 5 PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 20'   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
Biscuit   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Biscuit and Gravy Boulders
Top of the Notch   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 17'   Top of the Notch Boulders : Wheaties Boulder
General Patton's Arete   V2-3 5+ PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 25'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Patton Boulder
Pac-Man   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Pac Man Boulder
Primate   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
Nemesis Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Bone Doctor
The Roots   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine, 20'   Roots Boulder Area : The Roots Boulder
The Green Egg (aka "Green Mountain Gringo")   V5-6 6C+ PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Green Cave
Boomerang   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid
Tome's Roof   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, Alpine   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Tomes Boulder
Pulled Pork   V7 7A+     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid
Little Cottonwood   V7 7A+     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
The Impossible Problem   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
Filet of Finger   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Bone Doctor
Rhode Island Ripper   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : RI Boulder
Blunt   V11 8A     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
Touching the Sky   V12 8A+     Boulder, Alpine   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
Elephants Head Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   Elephant's Head Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Smuggler's Notch

Featured Route For Smuggler's Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Bloody Sunday

Bloody Sunday V10-11 8A  Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : ... : The Bone Doctor
The leftmost climb on the Nemesis boulder. The original Bill Patton start goes at V10 and starts on a juggy edge and a weird undercling and goes straight to the hard gaston move. The sit start is more of a laydown start and starts on the right side of the shelf. First move is gaston to the V10's undercling start hold. This goes at soft V11....[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Photos of Smuggler's Notch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Melvin Rivera on The Improbable Problem V7 - timet...
Melvin Rivera on The Improbable Problem V7 - timet...
Rock Climbing Photo: smuggs
Rock Climbing Photo: way back when - practice slab circa 2007
way back when - practice slab circa 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: green mnt gringo
green mnt gringo
Rock Climbing Photo: smuggs
Rock Climbing Photo: smuggs
Rock Climbing Photo: View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
Rock Climbing Photo: View from scenic 108
View from scenic 108

Comments on Smuggler's Notch Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 20, 2017
By Arian
From: suwanee
Apr 13, 2010
Check out Tim Kemple's guidebook for the area, New England Bouldering. It can be picked up at just about any outdoor shop for under $30 and it includes not only Smugglers Notch, but many other areas in New England as well such as Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway, just to name a few. The new edition even has updated lines like the V11 Truth and Lies.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 14, 2010
I would air on the side of caution when using the aforementioned guidebook when visiting Smuggs. Though comprehensive, it does include some misleading information re: difficulty, names, location. Additionally, as dense and maze-like as Smuggs is, it is hard to use said guidebook when navigating around up there. Better to find a local for the tour.
By mikejohnson1 Johnson
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jul 25, 2010
I hope to add a bunch of climbs including pictures and more descriptive approaches (See the listing on Thump for what not to do...). Please feel free to correct any mistakes in names/grades I may make.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 26, 2010
I agree with Chris. The NE Bouldering Guidebook was not compiled by locals (was added more as an after thought in my opinion) and so does contain some misleading information. That said, it's got most of the basics right though I think some grades are questionable in origin and a few of the names are wrong too. If I am correct I believe "The Green Egg" is called "Green Mountain Gringo" in the guidebook (is that where the surrogate name started?). In reality, there was never a "Green Mountain Gringo" problem on that boulder, it was always "The Green Egg" with the FA by John Sherman. Someone correct me if I am wrong....
By rogerk klinger
Jun 25, 2012
Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?

I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines.
By MikeJ
Aug 7, 2012
I agree the grades in the Kemple book are all incredibly inconsistent, and directions to boulders are often misleading. Still, better than nothing.

Best part of climbing at Smuggs: pissing off passing drivers. Some woman in a mini van called us "very stupid" as we finished a roadside V0... definitely the highlight of my weekend! :)
By boulderbum
From: NY
Mar 27, 2014
Colin you are wrong. Read stone crusade. VT gym gumbies called it green egg out of sheer ignorance.
By rogerk klinger
Apr 3, 2014
It's not out of sheer ignorance. The Vermonter who was with Sherman on the day of the send has misremembered the name and told the story repeatedly with the "Green Egg" name. Simple misremembering of something that happened years ago.
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 23, 2014
Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
By sifern
Apr 13, 2015
I'm looking to do some bouldering at the boulders behind the main parking area, but the mountain road doesn't open for another few weeks. I'm coming from Burlington. Would it be better to park and walk to the are from the Smuggler's Notch side or the Stowe side? I'd like to do as little walking as possible.
By eddysamson
Apr 22, 2015
Sifern the Notch side might be a quicker hike, but the Stowe side has warmups on the hike in. You can stop at the roots boulder on the hike in and climb V0-6 before finishing the last 10-15 mins of the hike in.
By sifern
Apr 29, 2015
Thanks Eddysamson!
By eddysamson
Aug 10, 2015
I have been recording a lot of video in the notch this summer, going to be releasing a series of videos of climbs from here. Here's the first one:

By Luca Keushguerian
From: RRG
Oct 14, 2015
Heres some videos of me climbing some problems

By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Aug 30, 2016
Where is Quickbeam (5.11c) located?
By doliver
Aug 30, 2016
ENT gully, the Toughschist guidebooK or Rakkup app is the best source of Beta on the area.
By Nicholas Hernandez
Jun 20, 2017

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