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Smugglers Notch

Select Area...
Boulders Behind the Main Parking Lot/Visitor Center 
Easy Gully Buttress 
Elephants Head 
ENT Boulders 
Moon Tower Boulder 
Quartz Crack Face 
Roots Boulder Area 
Top of the Notch Boulders 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Sunny Hollow Loop
A pretty thorough visit to Sunny Hollow. Near Winooski, Vermont
Passing the Horizon
This classic, technical roller-coaster was redone by the Fellowship of the Wheel in 2015. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Hinesburg Town Forest Ride
This is a nice 1-hour+ (fast) loop in the Hinesburg Town Forest ending with Passing the Horizon. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Pinner
Combine with Slight Return for an easier loop in the Carse Hills. Near Hinesburg, Vermont
Mobbs Valley MTB Trail
The marked MTB trail on the valley side of Mobbs Farm. Near Jericho, Vermont
Blueberry Lake Loop
An IMBA Gateway trail network tucked into the Mad River Valley. Near Warren, Vermont
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Smugglers Notch Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.55625, -72.79428 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,516
Administrators: KrisFiore, Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 27, 2006  with updates from rogerk
Forecast:
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Andrew Messick going for the crimp bouldering &quo...

Seasonal Raptor Closures 2016 For access issues: please review cragvt.org MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Home to dozens of amazing ice climbs. The area can either be very busy or totally empty - it's safe to count on a small crowd though.

Getting There 

Park on Rt. 108 where the road ends (seasonal road - don't try to drive up it, tickets are typically around $150 and the State Troopers love to hand em out).

Ski, snowshoe or hike up the road a mile or two to get to your climb - the climbs are obvious and located on both sides of the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

138 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',67],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',8],['V2-3',57],['V4-5',26],['V6-7',20],['V8-9',11],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',9],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Smugglers Notch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Smugglers Notch:
The Fin   V1 5 PG13     Boulder, 20'   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
The Obtuse   V1 5     Boulder, 25'   Roots Boulder Area : The Roots Boulder
Biscuit   V2 5+     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Biscuit and Gravy Boulders
General Patton's Arete   V2-3 5+ PG13     Boulder, 25'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Patton Boulder
Pac-Man   V3 6A     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Pac Man Boulder
Primate   V3 6A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
The Roots   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Roots Boulder Area : The Roots Boulder
The Green Egg (aka "Green Mountain Gringo")   V6- 7A PG13     Boulder, 16'   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Green Cave
Little Cottonwood   V6 7A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
Boomerang   V6 7A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid
Tome's Roof   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : Tomes Boulder
Local Hero (Sit)   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : The Asteroid
The Impossible Problem   V8 7B     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : Backyard Boulder
Rhode Island Ripper   V8 7B     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : RI Boulder
Bloody Sunday   V10 7C+     Boulder   Boulders Behind the Main Pa... : The Bone Doctor
Blunt   V11 8A     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
Touching the Sky   V12 8A+     Boulder   Top of the Notch Boulders : B.F.B.
The Diagonal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Quartz Crack Face
Quartz Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 360'   Quartz Crack Face
Elephants Head Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   Elephants Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Smugglers Notch

Featured Route For Smugglers Notch
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad getting close to the lip on The Obtuse

The Obtuse V1 5  VT : Smugglers Notch : ... : The Roots Boulder
Start on the left side of the Roots boulder wall on the long continuous diagonal flake on a jug. Traverse the flake all the way across the wall, gaining height as you go, once the flake ends, top out up and right on good holds next to a tree. Great holds the whole way, high at the end but not overly so, a nice line....[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

Photos of Smugglers Notch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Melvin Rivera on The Improbable Problem V7 - timet...
Melvin Rivera on The Improbable Problem V7 - timet...
Rock Climbing Photo: smuggs
smuggs
Rock Climbing Photo: way back when - practice slab circa 2007
way back when - practice slab circa 2007
Rock Climbing Photo: green mnt gringo
green mnt gringo
Rock Climbing Photo: smuggs
smuggs
Rock Climbing Photo: smuggs
smuggs
Rock Climbing Photo: View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
View from scenic 108 - Quartz Face Area
Rock Climbing Photo: View from scenic 108
View from scenic 108

Comments on Smugglers Notch Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 30, 2016
By Arian
From: suwanee
Apr 13, 2010
Check out Tim Kemple's guidebook for the area, New England Bouldering. It can be picked up at just about any outdoor shop for under $30 and it includes not only Smugglers Notch, but many other areas in New England as well such as Rumney, Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway, just to name a few. The new edition even has updated lines like the V11 Truth and Lies.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 14, 2010
I would air on the side of caution when using the aforementioned guidebook when visiting Smuggs. Though comprehensive, it does include some misleading information re: difficulty, names, location. Additionally, as dense and maze-like as Smuggs is, it is hard to use said guidebook when navigating around up there. Better to find a local for the tour.
By mikejohnson1
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jul 25, 2010
I hope to add a bunch of climbs including pictures and more descriptive approaches (See the listing on Thump for what not to do...). Please feel free to correct any mistakes in names/grades I may make.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 26, 2010
I agree with Chris. The NE Bouldering Guidebook was not compiled by locals (was added more as an after thought in my opinion) and so does contain some misleading information. That said, it's got most of the basics right though I think some grades are questionable in origin and a few of the names are wrong too. If I am correct I believe "The Green Egg" is called "Green Mountain Gringo" in the guidebook (is that where the surrogate name started?). In reality, there was never a "Green Mountain Gringo" problem on that boulder, it was always "The Green Egg" with the FA by John Sherman. Someone correct me if I am wrong....
By rogerk
Jun 25, 2012
Is there a way to organize this area by boulder?

I'd like to add some of the lines & variations that didn't make it into Kemple's guide. but organization by boulder would make it much easier to find the lines.
By MikeJ
Aug 7, 2012
I agree the grades in the Kemple book are all incredibly inconsistent, and directions to boulders are often misleading. Still, better than nothing.

Best part of climbing at Smuggs: pissing off passing drivers. Some woman in a mini van called us "very stupid" as we finished a roadside V0... definitely the highlight of my weekend! :)
By boulderbum
From: NY
Mar 27, 2014
Colin you are wrong. Read stone crusade. VT gym gumbies called it green egg out of sheer ignorance.
By rogerk
Apr 3, 2014
Boulderbum,
It's not out of sheer ignorance. The Vermonter who was with Sherman on the day of the send has misremembered the name and told the story repeatedly with the "Green Egg" name. Simple misremembering of something that happened years ago.
By Keyan P
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 23, 2014
Anyone heard of a climb called "Twilight Army" (v9)? Might also go by "Kyle's Problem". Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
By sifern
Apr 13, 2015
I'm looking to do some bouldering at the boulders behind the main parking area, but the mountain road doesn't open for another few weeks. I'm coming from Burlington. Would it be better to park and walk to the are from the Smuggler's Notch side or the Stowe side? I'd like to do as little walking as possible.
By eddysamson
Apr 22, 2015
Sifern the Notch side might be a quicker hike, but the Stowe side has warmups on the hike in. You can stop at the roots boulder on the hike in and climb V0-6 before finishing the last 10-15 mins of the hike in.
By sifern
Apr 29, 2015
Thanks Eddysamson!
By eddysamson
Aug 10, 2015
I have been recording a lot of video in the notch this summer, going to be releasing a series of videos of climbs from here. Here's the first one:

By Luca Keushguerian
From: Johnson, VT
Oct 14, 2015
Heres some videos of me climbing some problems





By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Aug 30, 2016
Where is Quickbeam (5.11c) located?
By doliver
Aug 30, 2016
ENT gully, the Toughschist guidebooK or Rakkup app is the best source of Beta on the area.