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Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

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01E - The Workout Wall 
02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka The Classroom) 
03W - ENT Gully Area 
04W - Quartz Crack Face Area 
05W - Easy Gully Area 
06E - The Playground Area 
08E - Elephant's Head Area 
10W - The Blind Fate Area 
13E - The South Wall Area 
14E - The Upper South Wall 
15W - Driving Force Area 
16E - Spruce Peak Crags 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

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Pinner
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From MP's sister site:

Smugglers Notch Ice climbing Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.555, -72.79619 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 41,107
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bradley white on Dec 27, 2009  with updates from tfarr3
Forecast:
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Sunday

45° | 44°
Monday

56° | 47°
Tuesday

56° | 39°
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Thursday

51° | 41°
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BETA PHOTO: Hidden Gully, Easy Gully, Quartz Crack Face with t...

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Description 

Smuggler's Notch has some of the best ice climbing and definitively the best mixed climbing in the Green Mountain State. Often referred to as "Smuggs" or "The Notch" by locals, it is comprised of climbing along the closed portion of Route 108 between Jeffersonville in the north and Stowe in the south, Smuggler's Notch is a gem of New England Climbing.

The approach times very greatly by snow conditions. Getting to Easy Gully from the Stone Hut, for example, can take 35 minutes or well over an hour depending on how much snow has come in and if the trail has been beaten in. Expect this for most climbs.

Climbs listed are from North to South and the 'W' or 'E' denotes whether a climb is on the west or east side of the road.

Getting There 

Ice climbing in The Notch can be approached by either the Stowe or Jeffersonville side. Generally, Jeffersonville is used to approach most climbing but use the next section as your guide.

Rt. 108 through the notch is closed from virtually the first snowfall of the season and usually stays closed until spring long after the ice is gone. As long as there is snowpack it's recommended to bring some kind of skis for the approach as the road is skiable throughout 90% of the ice season save for the first few weeks.

The lots on both sides of the road closure are almost always open on weekdays and usually fill up on weekends. If climbing on a weekend, plan to be there early, the Jeffersonville side has more spots but is also more popular.

Areas 

Areas from Jeffersonville (from Stowe), distances on the road from the parking/gate.
1.2 (1.8), Stone Hut
1.3 (1.7), High Point in Road
  • 1.35 (1.65), west side, Hidden Gully
  • 1.5 (1.5), west side, Terror-Tory

GPS MAP WITH AREAS LABELED courtesy of Max Forbes:

caltopo.com/m/RH9Q

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Smugglers Notch Ice climbing:
Ragnarock   WI4+ M4     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   08E - Elephant's Head Area
Blue Room   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 160'   13E - The South Wall Area
Hidden Gully   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 650'   10W - The Blind Fate Area
Jefferson Slide   WI3- M1-2 PG13     Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   02W - Jeff Slide Area (aka ...
Dave's Snotsicle   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   13E - The South Wall Area
Blind Fate   WI4     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   10W - The Blind Fate Area
Elephant's head gully   WI3-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 170'   08E - Elephant's Head Area
Grand Illusion   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 300'   05W - Easy Gully Area
Poster Child   WI4 M4+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 125'   05W - Easy Gully Area
Easy Gully   WI2-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   05W - Easy Gully Area
Grand Confusion   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   05W - Easy Gully Area
ENT Gully Variation   WI3+     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches   03W - ENT Gully Area
A's Anguish (AKA golden ice chimney)   WI4+     Trad, Ice   04W - Quartz Crack Face Are...
Left Ampitheater   WI3-4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   15W - Driving Force Area
Workout Wall   WI3-4     Trad, TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'   01E - The Workout Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Smugglers Notch Ice climbing

Featured Route For Smugglers Notch Ice climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Ragnarock taken from across the valley on Blind Fa...

Ragnarock WI4+ M4  Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : 08E - Elephant's Head Area
An amazing classic climb!First pitch is just OK, pitch 2 spices it up, and the top pitch is superb exposed steep ice!P1. WI3/4Angles up and left to the obvious corner with a short mixed section on the right to a bolted anchor.P2. M4(Generally NO ice on this pitch!) Climb straight up to bolted anchors approx 100ft. or continue out right onto ice.P3. WI4/5Angle out right to finish on the main flow or, if the ice is in continue straight up the steep curtain straight to the top!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Photos of Smugglers Notch Ice climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jefferson Slide looking down from approach above
Jefferson Slide looking down from approach above

Comments on Smugglers Notch Ice climbing Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Bend
Nov 11, 2012
Does the narrow no escape thin gully near Elephant Head, have a name? I got on it in 1986 and thought it would never end. Ice got shallow often and was not brittle. Same moves over and over again though.

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