REI Community
Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Curry the Dog T 
Gobbledegook T 
Jabberwocky T 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Laughing Crack T 
Mosquito T 
No-see-um T 
Old Age T 
Phlegmish Dance T 
Rock and Roll T 
Seam of Destinty T 
Sex T 
SM's Delight T 
Smoke Bluff Connection T 
Sparky's Crack T 
Sphinx'ter Quits T,S 
Zombie Roof T 
Unsorted Routes:

SM's Delight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Campbell, P. Kubik July 1980
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: SM's Delight Topo

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


Climb the slightly flared crack just left of Mosquito. Thin gear and technical feet to start before a deceptive crux. Get into good hands up an easing and widening crack to an optional belay. If continuing up Phlegmish Dance, step right across the slab to the second anchor on the bigger ledge.


Small rack to 3" - emphasis in .4-.75

Comments on SM's Delight Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 21, 2006

F'in hard (especially when it's raining).
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun. Harder than your typical Squamish 10b. I placed a #2 and #3 camalot higher up, despite the description above.
By Brian Alexander
Aug 31, 2009

This is one of my favorite routes of the grade in the Smoke Bluffs. Bring a small rack from the yellow TCU to #1 Camalot. I placed 1 #2 cam near the top.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Clean white rock on this one fools you into thinking that it is dry, but the crack drains water all the way down in wet times, holding water long after rain has stopped. If it is seeping water at the base, be warned- you are in for a sandbag.
That said, the climbing is still very good and reasonably well protected, and worth doing. Rather than finish at the chain anchor, complete the crack system by clipping the chains with a draw and continuing upwards through 'Curry the Dog.' Getting off with require 2 raps, but at lest you get a longer & more continuous pitch than the Smoke Bluffs area normally offers.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Agree that it's tricky, thought the pro was straight forward though. Pumpy on insecure feet, but it's only hard for the first half.

Gear recommendation here is pretty weird too. Take gear from blue metolius to #3 Camalot, plus some small nuts up to finger size. You could get away with yellow metolius to #2 Camalot though. The thin stuff you can see from the ground, but once you pass the crux all the appropriate pro for the next 12m ranges from .75-#3. The grade drops dramatically (~5.8) but it's still a ways to go to the anchor and you'll want a few good pieces to plug.
By Mark van Eijk
Oct 9, 2015

Definitely tricky compared to other routes of the grade in the area. Mainly good locks and very technical feet. I agree that the gear recommendation makes no sense. In BD sizes you'll be able to place from a #1 C3/#0.2 X4 all the way up to a #3 C4. Heavy on #0.4 to #0.75. You may want to have a small-hands cam or a big nut for the last 30 feet, even though it's easy.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 3, 2017

Really good climb, and really tough for the grade in Squamish- felt harder than Exasperator to me.

I used a 0.3, doubles from 0.4 to 1 and some other stuff (nut, #2). Bomber gear- but man, the lack of feet make the crux pretty exciting!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About