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Smoot Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2+ R

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2+ R [details]
FA: The Smoot Brothers
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 13, 2008

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route begins from a large ledge on the north side of the tower. Climb the very soft slab to a stance. Go up the soft corner to the traverse, then up the headwall to a bolted anchor.

The route is extremely soft. The pins I placed were often removed by hand. The only time I felt a fall would be caught was when two pieces were placed together and equalized.


North west side of the tower.


I took a few peckers, a couple of L.A types, and a host of angles up to 3/4. As I tried toplace double friends where ever I could get in one, I recomend at least a double set from .5 to 3. One big piece, like a 6, might make the softness at the top more easy, though its not necessary. A single rope reaches from the summit to the ledge

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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jun 13, 2008

OK, in the interest of getting this correct I have added a route that was thought to be the first one put on the Seraph page by Todd G. As Brad B mentioned, at least according to the book and F.A. info, the route submitted by Todd and Matt Pickeren and Bill Grasse was for a different route. This description fits with what the Smoots described as their route.

This thing is soft. Its scary. The slab at the start has dire consequences if you slip and no single piece seems that good.

I removed the slings from the summit and put in a chain anchor. Don't pull out too hard on those bolts... a 1/2 inch hole took a 3/4 angle nicely.

I put a bolt on the ledge for the belayer to clip into. THere was a hole there, amidst the graffiti, that clearly had an angle in it at one time. If the angle was not there for the first ascent, which I doubt, I will go back and remove the bolt. However, it is the only thing keeping the belayer from being pulled off if the leader slips, so it was probably part of the F.A.

I should add that I think I got the second ascent... All other ascents from the tower appear to have been done on the Gordon-Poo-Cave Route... which is perhaps wise.

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